The rebuilt 63 225 is running and strong. Yeehaw!
Got the dizzy dialed in finally. That was the first part that made the difference. Yanked the carb apart yesterday after I was having problems keeping it running for lack of fuel. Cleaned and blew out everything, put it back together and started the engine again. Then it ran and kept running but wanted to die at idle. I realized I put one of the check balls in the wrong place, yanked it apart again, re-located the check ball to the correct orifice, and it started and ran on it's own. Nice! Here are some observations & questions for everyone:
1. When the engine's cold and choked, it starts and runs on its own at fast idle. BUT, when it warms up and the choke backs off, it dies. I can give the throttle a 'pump' and it will start again, and I must keep the throttle slightly depressed for it to keep running at a faster idle. I can't keep it running at low idle - it dies. I'm thinking this may be a combination of a mal-adjusted carburetor, and a tight engine. Thoughts?
2. There's significant vibration/engine tremble at low-mid idle. I'm 95% sure the vibration I'm feeling is being well-transmitted to the frame by the new poly engine mounts (front mounts only, didn't change the rear mount). Any speculation about where all this vibration is coming from? The engine feels 'smooth' at a higher revved speed, but not at speeds closer to idle: feels 'jerky' and when sitting in the car, you feel the engine trembling. Is this just break-in jitters? If so, when should this even-out?
3. Now that I have it running, I have to start fine-tuning. I need to A) service the carburetor to get the settings correct for idle mixture, lean idle, fast idle, etc., and B) I need to lash the valves to correct specs. There may be other things I need to do, but these are the first that come to mind. Should I perform these procedures in this order, or are there other steps I should take?
4. Random question: the union I made on one of my trans cooler lines leaks slightly - right onto the exhaust pipe (smoky!), despite a very tight connection. If I were to use a tape on the threaded fittings to help the seal, what tape would that be? White plumber's tape, or something else? I don't feel like I should have to use anything on this union to get it to seal correctly, but maybe my flare job wasn't 100% ideal, or maybe the line entered the union at just such an angle that causes the union to be unable to mate the lines perfectly (guessing). If I have to bend/re-flare the line, I will, but this is one of my least-favorite activities - such a B!*$tch!
5. I used to think that the Chrysler high-speed starter on my engine sounded odd, and cranked the engine with a weird cadence because the engine had a cylinder or two with low compression (causing the uneven cranking). Well, there's still an uneven sound. Instead of a nice even 'do do do do do', it's kinda 'do do do duuuooo do do do duuuoo". With the rebuild, I thought that would be gone! Maybe my starter has some internal wear or dead spots that need servicing?
Want to get these issues taken care of asap, so I can get this baby back on the road.
Thanks for the thoughts!
Will share video links, once I get everything corrected.
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Are you sure you have the dwell/points set correct? Timing? I have poly motor mounts and they have very little vibration transmission to the car.(the OLD mashmellow ones had the engine shaking all over the place!)
