There may be better combinations than a slant six and a turbocharger, but I can't think of a single one, offhand... sort of like eggs and bacon, peaches and cream and beer 'n' pretzels... Meant to go together!!!
Few combinations work as well to enhance the output of a slant six as a well-chosen hairdryer, and you seem to be off to a really good start with the items you have collected, so far.
There are some things about this particular "hop-up" that do not seem to work well with "traditional" hot rodding practices, but nothing difficult-to-understand nor hard to fathom.... most of the hardware you have already in your possession should work well with your combination, I would think.
Your desired final performance numbers will dictate a few items such as camshaft duration and lift, and the degree to which you desire to intercool and water/alky spray the incoming air charge, and the rpm range you choose to employ, but a satisfying motor in terms of output should be a very straightforward build with the parts you already have.
I am probably too inexperienced in building motors like this one to be giving advice like this, but in my limited experience, I have learned that ONE thing turbocharged slant sixes really don't like, is overlap. That phenomenon occurs when both intake and exhaust valves of one cylinder are both open at the same time. Long-duration cams use that (overlap) to enhance breathing on normally-aspirated engines at high rpm. The numbers you see on successful turbocharged slant sixes usually display specifications such as, for example, 215 degrees of duration for both intake and exhaust valves @ .050," give or take 5-degrees. The cam you have in your possession has appropriate duration numbers for a normally-aspirated motor that is expected to make good power at 4,000 rpm. but would not work well with forced induction.
One advantage of this situation is that turbo motors, as a result of this, cannot have much lift, as a result of their small-duration... and, this makes possible the scenario wherein some fairly weak valve springs will work well... which enhances camshaft longevity. It makes possible a valve train that won't be exposed to a lot of valve spring pressure, or high rpm's as a matter of course, so stock, or nearly-stock pushrods and rocker arms won't be in jeopardy (as they might be in a naturally-aspirated, hjgh rpm engine's, environment.)
The thing about turbo's is, once you determine how much power you want to develop, you can set limits on boost that will give you just that output, and by-pass the expensive stuff. Stock pistons are said to be pretty much all you'll ever need if you set your boost limit to ten pounds. Ditto for stock rods, and the crank, particularly, if it's an older, forged unit.
You can, for example, make an easy 250 horsepower with 10 pounds of boost, and likely 300, if you employ alcohol-water injection. That is strictly MY opinion; other's mileage may vary...
The expensive part of turbocharging a slant six comes when you decide you REALLY want to make 500 horsepower, and decide that it's going to take 25+pounds of boost to make that. In order to have an engine that can live under that kind of stress. it's going to take forged piston$, forged rod$, and some expen$ive head work (to make the power)... to say nothing of carb modification$ (or, EFI) so its the old game of "speed costs money; how fast do you want to go???"
It's way better to make that call going in, than later-on.
You have a great head-start with that assortment of parts you have right now.
Give it some thought and get back to us. Believe me when I say, there are people on this board who have FORGOTTEN more than I will ever know about this... Hopefully, some of them will chime in...
But, you're gonna have tons of FUN with this... that's the only thing I know for sure...
Bill, in Conway, Arkansas