Long time lurker first time poster. I have to think you all for your great forum and articles, they have helped me out a lot. I recently purchased a junkyard Super Six slant and I’m currently doing a rebuild in my garage.

I am at the point now when it is time to have the head machined. I’ve purchased the 1.70 & 1.44 valves from ebay and I am unsure on what cam to and valve springs to buy. I own the 3 books that Dan recommends and have yet to find time to read them except when I have questions. I just don’t understand all the numbers when it comes to the cam.

I want the car to get out of the way fast when I stomp on it. I like a clean open engine bay so I don’t want to go turbo.

If the Comps cam is bad for our oil pump then why do they keep selling them? Can’t we just hot dip the cam to get rid of the stuff that eats up the pump gear?

I think I’ve read somewhere if we put a beefier cam in we should use 340 valve springs?

Any links and advice would be great?

Is this a good cam?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-7 ... make/dodge
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-7 ... make/dodge

Thanks
Joe

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1964 Valiant - Signet - Convertible - 225 - Push Button 904 - 7.25 - Drum Brakes X4

I was thinking about using this torque converter

http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/ind ... ucts_id=16

The 340 valve springs are available from the same guy you bought the valves from for under $40. I am running them in my engine right now.

Some people and (some of the best racers) run a Comp cam and have had no problems.

The truth is, if you pull your factory cam and look at the gear on it and it looks good; Then I would send that cam over to Oregon cams and have them regrind it for you. Just about $80. Then you could use the same oil pump gear that has run on that cam for the life of the engine.

If you use a new cam then I'd get a hardened gear from Doc with the modified oil pump for whichever brand cam you run. This sprays oil directly onto the cam/oil pump gears. Honestly if it was me, I would get one of the modified pumps for any cam I used. It is just cheap insurance.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

If you are talking about engnbldr he's all sold out. But thanks for confirming that they are 340 springs.
Sorry about that I've only read the arguments against. I haven't ran into any arguments for.
I'm going to talk to a prospective machinist today, I'll see if they do regrinds.
I still don't know what these numbers mean in relation to me in the driver seat with my foot on the peddle. I heard the higher the lobe separation the better it idles and I like that.
If I knew I could do this I would have a while ago. I thought he retired?

Thanks
Joe

When choosing the cam, it will be helpful to give us some more info. Then the experts can give you their opinion.

What car is it going in? Weight? Auto or Manual Transmission? What rear ratio? What is you real goal with the car?

The engine builder valves work fine but the real key to make any valve work is to open up the bowl area right under the valve. There is a lot of flow to be had right under the valve head.

Give us some more info, and you will get some resposnses!

PS. Doug is still here. Drop him a PM about the oil pump. You'll be glad you did.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Sorry about that Rick, I have so many questions I just didn’t know how to start.

It's a 1964 push button Valiant convertible, 904, 7-1/4 (stock ratio?). I'm building a 1977 225 Super Six. Eventually I would like to put double Dutra’s on and a weber side draft intake. At the same time I’m doing the engine build I’m doing a disk conversion, better wheels, tires, rear suspension and adding Sebring bucket seats with the shoulder straps. In about 5 years after saving up the money I would like to pull everything off, put it on a rotisserie, cut out the cancer and stiffen it up.

The only thing I know is I would like it to go fast when I want to. When the light turns green I like to be out in front, but when I get to the speed limit I lay off. When I need to get over on the freeway I like to punch it so I can’t be blocked out. I like being out in front but I’m not the guy that races you ‘cause you want to be in front of me. I just want torque when I need it.
If you mean porting, I was definitely going to ask the guy to do that. Haha. Do you think I should have .90 shaved of as well?

Thanks for the info Rick!

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1964 Valiant - Signet - Convertible - 225 - Push Button 904 - 7.25 - Drum Brakes X4

The cheapest way to take advantage of the bigger valves is have the machinist run a 'bowl hawg' down the valve pocket. It's a narrow-angle cutter that enlarges the bowl area without a lot of hand work. It will get you 7/10 of the way to a ported bowl area with 1/10 the cost.

Picking a cam/compression/intake/exhaust can be as simple or as complicated as you make it. It all depends on how much time you want to spend reading and planning.

Choose a cam based on LSA, duration and overlap. Lou and other guys on here have shown me that slants like a narrow LSA around 106 degrees (small valves, small bore, poor flow = not too much reversion at low speeds). With the 340 valve springs you can't go over .480 valve lift or so, which is another limiting factor.

You can figure out the CR you want after you choose a cam - the later the intake closing point (i.e. the more duration you have) the more compression ratio you want. When you figure that out, then work backwards to get a head cc desired (using piston deck height, bore, gasket thickness)

You can then guestimate the amount to cut off the head, or measure the head and know exactly.

Or you can also stay blissfully unaware and throw some parts together and probably be OK too, as long as you stay conservative.

Once upon a time I built a mostly stock slant, before I knew as much as I do now, by simply boring it .080, cutting the head .100, and using the smallest of the old Mopar Performance cams (back when they were made, I think it was basically the stock later cam). I didn't degree anything, or measure anything, and it performed great.

With a stock 1bbl carb and a good ignition system it was perfect for driving around LA traffic and could keep up with pretty much anything. Would spin (one of) the stock 13-inch tires on my '64 Dart all day long.

Thanks Rob, at this point I’m just having a hard time picking a machinist to work on it. I haven’t found anyone near me that is familiar with what I want to do with my slant, let alone I can’t find a machinist that has any respect for this engine.

I just feel like if the machinist thinks everything I’m asking them to do is pointless then they won’t really care about the quality of their work.

Ugh

Keep looking for a MOPAR machinist. I tried working with a machinist like your describing and he did a terrible job. Never again......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The guy I used for my latest engine is in Costa Mesa if you want to drive up to OC. Don't know anyone in San Diego, but there's got to be someone.

You don't really need a Mopar machinist, just a good one. Do you have any friends that are into sand rails? Usually those guys know good engine shops.

you must've gotten a bad batch, my enginbldr 340 valve springs got max lift and did not bind the inner spring at .53 lift on my 12:1 motor.

You do have to watch the narrow LSA as the cam duration will affect how that works, I have a high 9:1 SCR motor with an OCG moderate duration cam and a 106 LSA that was installed at 101.5 degrees centerline...even with the distributor at 12 BTDC the car at idle makes 13" hg (best of 16" hg at 2000 rpm...) so you need to pick the cam based on what you are going to do daily drive/ street strip/ weekend cruise/ all out race. Daily drive for the first timer is best to get a short cam and bump to 9:1 SCR and work it from there...

-D.Idiot

Sorry I should have said "with the 340 springs, stock retainers, stock-length valves and stock-length valve guides". My guides are cut down for .500 lift, but Engnbldr told me they are rated for .500 max lift at the recommended installed height. That's cool you get more lift out of yours.

Not a good idea. That converter is rated for a V-8 not a slant. The best thing to do is call Edge, and talk to Andre. Tell him about the car/engine, and what you want to do. Let him tell you what converter to get.
Another issue you have is the eary trans with the later engine. The early trans has the small splines, and the later engine has the large crank pilot hole. Andre can build a converter to work with that, but I think I would have the converter built with the small splines, and the small pilot, and use an adapter bushing in the end of the crank. That would give you more options.
Or get the converter with the small pilot and large splines, and change the input shaft, pump, and clutch packs in the trans to the late parts. That gives you more options, yet. That's how all my converters are.
Andre made them.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks Charrlie, I might mention that the engine that is currently in my car looks to be from 1969 and since I still have the push button transmission I’m assuming that I already have the adapter bushing.

You "should" have the bushing, but you would be supprised how many swaps have been done without it. If it turns out it is not there, I sell them as does Doc, and TF Patty.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225