The slant in my D100 has MOPAR electronic ignition and runs great. It is hard to start sometimes, however, and I am wondering what to do to make it start better. It seems to start pretty readily the first start of the day, but after I've driven it awhile and gotten it thoroughly warm, I shut it off, walk inside for a moment, walk back out and I have to grind the starter for what seems like a L-o-n-g time to get it started. When doing this, sometimes I'll grind it for 25-30 seconds or so, and as I move the key to the off position to give the starter a break, the engine will fire a time or two right when I turn the key off. I have been considering the HEI conversion since everything I've seen in this forum about it says it gives better spark across a wider gap. What do you think? If I do the HEI conversion, what plugs and gap would be best? Would HEI make it start better? Davey

sounds like you need the fuel line mod-- that routes it over the valve cover instead of the front of the engine. Do a search & you will find this fix--very common on the slants SSdan has been preaching it for years.

What year is your D100? Which carburetor do you have? Where do you live?

The fuel line mod is usually a good idea, but depending on the specifics of your vehicle, carburetor, and location, there may be other factors at work that can be tweaked or fixed to improve hot starts, too.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

All the info above will help. But I really think you have a ignition problem. What may be happening is that the start curcuit is not working, but the run curcuit is doing fine. To be honest ther eis many things that can cause this. One, if it does have a Duel sided ballast resistor the start side could be going out. Or even the 12V that feeds it could go not work, this is supplied from the ignition switch.

To test it you can take a test light or Volt meter & check for 12v on both side of the ballast while a friend operates the igintion key for you. One side will get voltage while cranking & the other will have voltage with the key in the run possition. Both going into the ballast & after the ballast willl need to be checked.

The igintion box can do this also & is a bit harder to check. If the distributor has Duel pick ups one of them could be going bad (one is for run & one for start). Also I have seen the bulk head connector that goes threw the firewall have bad connections & cause the loose of 12v to the ballast.

The HEI mod would be a good thing to do. But you still need to make sure you have the 12v coming from the start & run curcuits from the ignition switch. Will the HEI be better than what you have? Yes. But unless you are doing a performance build it really is no big deal with you already having electronic igintion. But still it may help with a little power & fuel milage even if you are not doing performance. As far as plugs you can run the plugs you use now & just widen the gap a bit, to maybe like .040 to .045.


Jess

I would say that jess was right on track, with
the rest of the advice from others very good!

I have done the fuel line mod, helped a bunch
with hot starts and even a bit with cold starts.

I have had problems with the 'delay' start
between start and run before.
Found in my case it was a poor ground
for the EI box. Ran a ground wire to the
box mount hole from the neg side of
battery- never happend again.

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http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

I had this problem with my Duster, turned out the pickup in my distributor was going out.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Still waiting to read a year and carburetor type...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It is a 71 D100, but the engine is out of a 74 Aspen or Volare I think. It has electronic ignition. I noticed something else this morning. I went out and started it for the first time at about 9:00 am, and it started pretty quickly from dead cold. I only let it high idle for about three minutes and shut it off to go back into the house to get something. When I went back out to start it again, I had to crank it for what seemed a LONG time to get it restarted. I think what this tells me is that, while it may indeed have a hot start fuel vaporization problem, that's not all that's wrong, because this morning it certainly wasn't warm when it was hard to start. I'm still thinking I may need to rebuild the carb. This engine has a 2 barrel intake and carb on it, though I'm not sure which carb it is. Davey

Hey, OP, did you ever find a remedy to this problem? Have a similar issue with my '71 225 Slant w/ 1-barrel.

Is it possible it might be a valve adjustment thing as well, as suggested here: http://www.allpar.com/forums/topic/1167 ... ured-mine/ —?

Thanks for any and all help on this!

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"We put a Dodge in our garage!" —old lady in older Dodge ad

Proud 1971 Plymouth Scamp owner

My 69 a100 does the same thing. I have a super 6 w/a Weber DGEV. NOW, when I shut it down when warm and let it sit for less than a minute or so, it fires real quick. Anytime longer than that and I have the same problem. I have to treat it like it's flooded to get it going, hold foot to the floor. I have also done the fuel line mod with no change to improvement. Floats are correct, jetted a little lean for my liking but runs great. I just think it's the crappy gas of today that causes vapor lock from being shut down and gets heat soaked. You could make a heat shield and mount it under the carb to cut down on the heat, doesn't look real pretty but have heard that it helps alot, I have yet to do this myself. Good Luck.