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| gunk in engine https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53663 |
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| Author: | barbee6043 [ Wed Oct 23, 2013 5:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | gunk in engine |
just got eng out of buddies junk yard, got off pan and valve cover, turns over freely but WOW probably has 1 /16 inch of pure GUNK! can i soak this booger with ???? to get rid of some of this crude or get it runnin and pour in lots of "sea foam" and keeps changing the oil????? |
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| Author: | ceej [ Wed Oct 23, 2013 6:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Perfectly good time to tear it down, and have it tanked. Measure all the vitals, fix what ails it, then put it back together. If it's filthy, it wasn't maintained properly. Make sure it's worth bolting in. 2¢ CJ |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
we had more build up then that/but it was installed/only correct motor I had/I gingerly removed what I could, then poured new trans fluid all over the valve train to hopefully get the crap in to the oil pan..4 quarts cheap trans fluid. drained it for 3 days. kept my fingers crossed.no issues yet using that purple synthetic oil 10-30 wt. have revved it over 5K, but less the 100 miles on unit. that's my story and I'm sticking to it. it's stock motor/planning a build/car had been off road 1-2 years.. so........... |
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| Author: | FrankRaso [ Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
See Sludge. If you're not planning to tear the engine down, just clean the valve cover and oil pan with mineral spirits and reinstall. Use a good HDEOto slowly remove the sludge. Now would be a good time to give the engine a coat of paint and oven cleaner does a good job of removing the caked-on grime. As the oil pan is already off, now would also be a good time to replace the rear seal. |
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| Author: | barbee6043 [ Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | yep |
I would love to have it rebuilt but not in my plate right now, I have a 72 and 76 feather duster I would sell less engine ( both have good /6). if not I need to try to use this engine but would love to get rid of this gunk. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Wed Oct 23, 2013 5:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Old used transmission fluid will do it.....and its cheap! I have used it on may old slants and brought them back to life. |
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| Author: | barbee6043 [ Thu Oct 24, 2013 3:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | atf |
so fill the engine FULL and let set for how long? |
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| Author: | FrankRaso [ Thu Oct 24, 2013 5:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Transmission oil is not a good engine flush, especially if its used in place of engine oil in a running engine. Although transmission oil is a low-viscosity oil (approximately 5W-20), it has the wrong proportions of additives for a good engine oil. From what I've read, it is the thinness of ATF that helps to remove sludge rather than its additive package. An ester-based (Group V) engine oil like Redline or Motul would work much better than ATF. BITOG - ATF as an engine flush BITOG - ATF Fluids It is not clear to which reply you're asking about, but you don't fill an engine and let it set. My recommendation was to put in a normal fill of HDEO and just run it. |
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| Author: | barbee6043 [ Thu Oct 24, 2013 9:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | flush |
i'll go with your recommendation. the ATF idea came from the guys at another site. |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Thu Oct 24, 2013 10:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Diesel oils are high in detergents. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Thu Oct 24, 2013 11:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
With the cover and pan pulled, use stodder solvent and a stiff brush to loosen and flush-out as much "gunk" as possible. (does the JY engine have the correct oil pan & p-up?) Pour lots of solvent down thru the top and out the bottom. A strong "wet-dry" shop vac. with a "tip extension" is also helpful to pick-up small "chunks" missed by the flushing. DD |
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| Author: | frank79912 [ Sun Nov 24, 2013 3:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | sludge bucket |
When I got my "free" 83 it smoked and fouled plugs almost instantly.Could not find the valve springs due to the carbon-not sludge but burnt on old oil that was never changed.I took the valve cover off and the rocker shaft ,put valve guide seals on that where no longer there, and used a foaming engine cleaner-this one was made by AMSOIL to decarbon engines.It took about 3 hours of scrubing but got the head clean.Ran it for a day then pulled to oil pan and removed 2 coffee cans of crude out of the pan and off of the oil sump.Did a timing chain and oil pump . I never before had to scrape carbon off of main caps! Changed the rod and main bearings which where standard and oem stamped 1983. Plastigauged it at .015 on the rods and ,002-.003 on the mains.Well the lifter galley is still a mess. The oil turns black and I have to change it every 1300 miles because the oil filter plugs about then.But 2 1/2 years and 8,000 mile later its still uses a quart in 500 miles,has 42 psi of oil pressure over 1200 rpm even in the hottest weather and the test crude on the oil filler cap that I left on for testing is slowly coming off.It developed a knock on cold start last fall that was getting louder and worse so I parked it-changed oil in the spring to 10w40 shell a short purolator filter and a bottle of slick 50 and 5,000 miles later purrs like a kitten and never made a sound again. And I did decarbon the cylinders with 20 % cylinder leakage past the rings but the blow by is almost nill along with the blue cloud of exhaust smoke when cold. |
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| Author: | barbee6043 [ Sun Nov 24, 2013 5:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | amazin slant |
amazing!!! i have to wonder how many miles are on some of these slant wonders!!?? |
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| Author: | 63gtcv [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would suggest also to pull the rocker shaft and give it a good cleaning. The inside of my 63 Dart engine was REAL bad when I got it but you know these slants, tough to kill. I also swear by Engine Restore. |
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