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oil pump removal
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53691
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Author:  gyaniam [ Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:47 pm ]
Post subject:  oil pump removal

hello everyone my name is Gyan and I drive an Australian 1961 R series valiant with a 225 slant motor my question is can the oil pump be removed without an engine removal and also the removal of the sump pan as my internet search so far has returned both answers of yes and no hope someone out there can help so I can get my daily ride back on the road
PS only a weekend mechanic

Author:  Danarchy [ Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

Here is a Great Post from One of the Forum Master!
Quote:
It can be pulled in a 1967+ car if you do the following:

1) Chock the rear wheels
2) Drain the Radiator
3) Remove the radiator hoses from the radiator
4) Loosen driver's side motor mount slightly
5) Loosen passenger side motor mount completely
6) Remove oil filter
7) Jack up the car and put jackstands under front subframe rails.
8 ) Put a 2x4 under the passenger side oil pan flange and use jack to
lift the motor up until the passenger side motor mount is clear of the K-member spool catch...or the motor mount is loose of the 'sandwich' on 1967-1972 cars. Do not jack the motor up using the jackand the oil pan itself.
9) Remove 5 or 6 bolts using a 1/2" wrench, ratchet, etc that hold the pump to the block.
10) Using a small rubber hammer or piece of wood give the pump a 'thump' to loosen it from the engine.
11) If you have an original OEM 6 bolt pump there will be barely enough room to pull it straight out and remove.
11A) If you have an aftermarket Melling/5 bolt pump:
a)Remove the pump rotor cover bolts
b) Remove the pump cover and rotating ring (that way you don't drop it and marr the surface when removing the pump)
c) Remove pump, it will just barely clear once the cover and bolts are removed.
12) Clean block mating surface.
13) If installing an OEM pump to it's place, install in reverse making sure
to install the oil pump gasket the correct way on the pump body first.
13A) If installing an aftermarket Melling pump remove pump cover, gasket, and rotating ring. Install gasket on pump body, install pump body per reverse of above, except: Once the body has been bolted to engine, with clean hands (or gloves) install rotating ring, use a dab of grease or vaseline and smear on pump rotor and ring, especially in the 'mating cavities'/contact surfaces, install gasket and pump cover, tighten all bolts.
14) Lower car, rehook up motor mounts, radiator hoses, fill radiator, install new oil filter with a good dollop of oil in the filter before it is installed-probably good to do a full oil change at this point as well.


This is far easier with the engine out of the car...and I wouldn't do this again with it raining outside either... Wink

-D.Idiot

here is the link to the thread I pulled it from.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... mp+removal

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Thu Oct 24, 2013 7:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Ooooh....

The 1961 is a bit narrower, and being right hand drive is going to make my post non-useable for removing the pump...

Need one of our Down Under technicals to field that question!

:lol:

-D.Idiot

Author:  Danarchy [ Fri Oct 25, 2013 6:25 am ]
Post subject: 

oh Hell! I missed the Australian part(reading too fast), why don't they learn to put the steering wheel on the correct side? :lol:
Just pull the engine! :shock:

Author:  62hypapak [ Fri Oct 25, 2013 7:42 pm ]
Post subject: 

Yes and yes and no and no,

Remember the long way is the short way, I tell this to all my apprentices. It will be so much easier and less hand and back breaking to just take out the engine.

Are you running the original oil filter on the side skirt or a spin off Z9 filter?

Author:  SlantSteve [ Sat Oct 26, 2013 4:44 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
oh Hell! I missed the Australian part(reading too fast), why don't they learn to put the steering wheel on the correct side? :lol:
Just pull the engine! :shock:
We can't even decide what time zone to have, let alone anything else! Each summer we change over to daylight saving time as we call it and each state has its own timing for implementation... Anyways, when are you guys going to go to metric!! Mind you, it is a nice excuse to buy more tools!
I've never worked on an R series Valiant, but if it's anything like an AP5,6 or VC I'd pull the engine, why do you need to pull the oil pump??

Author:  gyaniam [ Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:33 pm ]
Post subject: 

thanks to all who replied .
as for why I have to pull the pump as I said in the first post because the housing is split where the brass fitting on the bottom pipe is and its badly leaking oil .
just had the engine out to do the rope main seal was hoping for an easier solution than another removal.(':cry:')
the oil filter is a z9 on the opposite side to the pump

Author:  gyaniam [ Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:37 pm ]
Post subject: 

sorry didn't put why in first post that was another site
life can be confusing sometimes

Author:  SlantSteve [ Sat Oct 26, 2013 9:18 pm ]
Post subject: 

Ah yes,had one crack on me too. The alloy housings of the Aussie pump can't take much tightening of those fittings before they crack. I'm sorry, I really haven't tried to pull the pump in the car,but I hate to say it but pulling the engine is really the best way to really have a good look at sealing the sump area,so may as well do the ump then.....sorry bout that.

Author:  gyaniam [ Sun Oct 27, 2013 5:49 pm ]
Post subject: 

thanks for that, had a feeling the engine would have to come back out again hopefully wont take as long this time as this will be the second time this month.
thanks again to all who replied.

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