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| wont start need help https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53717 |
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| Author: | t_melhoff [ Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | wont start need help |
I cant get my scamp to start or even spark at that. I have replaced ball res, coil, plugs, cap, wires, voltage reg and a new disturbitor. I rewired the ignitions but haven't had any luck getting a spark. I already tested coil for power and the ball res. I am puzzled, if this helps I have to start the car in neutral. I know that means I need a neutral saftey switch, but could this be my problem. The only other thing I can think of is the ignition switch. Also could the timing chain or disturbitor being off a tootch cause no spark ?Any ideas. Thanks in advance. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Have you checked the gap of the reluctor in the distributor? Have you checked that the pickup in the distributor is good? A neutral start switch only affects whether or not the engine will crank, not whether or not the plugs will fire. |
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| Author: | t_melhoff [ Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have to try and start the car in neutral and I bought a refurbished one and didnt think to check the gap or pick up because I thought those were tested and set right from the ware house ? The gap should be at 0.008 right ? |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Oct 29, 2013 2:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I bought a refurbished one and didnt think to check the gap or pick up because I thought those were tested and set right from the ware house ? The gap should be at 0.008 right ?
Don't assume the remanufacturers test or set anything. I have purchased numerous "new" distributors and distributor pickups that did not work. I don't recall the reluctor gap offhand. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah, 0.007:-0.008" is good, use a brass (nonmagnetic) feeler gage when reading & setting gap. |
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| Author: | t_melhoff [ Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok gap was good and pick up test good, I did notice when cranking the car with cap off the rotor was turning slow. Could this be an issue, how fast should it be turning ? |
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| Author: | t_melhoff [ Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Also I had the old disturbitor on the engine and I was still not getting spark? Thats why I went ahead and bought a new one ? |
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| Author: | Fopar [ Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Rotor will turn at 1/2 the crankshaft speed. Richard |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Time to get out the voltmeter and start probing the start and ignition circuits from the battery to the distributor to verify voltage at all points. |
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| Author: | t_melhoff [ Wed Oct 30, 2013 3:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did that already.... everything is getting the correct power voltage. Dont know what else it could be . |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Oct 30, 2013 3:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What is your plug gap and how are you checking for spark? |
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| Author: | t_melhoff [ Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
With a spark testor |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can always hot wire it and if that works mount a switch inside to a relay that ties into the ballast. I have been avoiding tearing my steering column apart to replace the ignition switch on my 74. It has been doing the same thing from time to time. I just turn the key to off and restart. Sometimes it will start just fine and sometimes it doesn't until I turn the key from start back to run mode.....then she fires off at the last second. My car starts very quick if there is juice at the coil. I am thinking it is time to install a NASCAR lighted switch. |
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