Ok, so if I am understanding this correctly the most important part is to have the correct distributor shaft end play. When I get this set correctly (the end play) I drill a hole in the nylon gear (important to note that the hole needs to be drilled through both sides of the nylon gear) to match up with the existing hole in the shaft so that the roll pin can be inserted to hold fast the nylon gear.
Is there any special indexing/relationship required for the nylon gear and distributor shaft? I don't think there is but I want to ask for clarification.
Thankyou!

You got about 12 teeth on that gear? That means only have to be close, then turn the distributor to get TDC. Doubt there is a phasing on it.

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I didn' t buy it, I built it.....

Ok, I'm using the thrust washer in the kit and setting endplay between .003 and.010 and drilling holes in the nylon gear to match the shaft. thxs

I posted a picture of the proper aliment in this post.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... ?p=1109552

That post is hard to get salient information out of...but Dan is right in his two methods, on the 1972+ distributors they don't have an oil grove on the shaft like the earlier points distributors as mopar was moving toward the non oiler body in anticipation of the EI distributors in 1973, so indexing isn't as important for shaft oiling. It really is important to place the new drilled hole about 80-90 degrees from the "scribe" hole as the compression on the new gear at high rpm (drag race and spirited highway passing) can cause it to crack between the drilled hole and the scribe hole, if less than that ultimately causing the gear to get shredded up and the engine to come to a halt. Clocking/indexing isn't as important as the distributor can be adjusted and installed using Dan's method of finding TDC and going from there. I set endplay a little tighter at .005 to keep the shaft from climbing too far and causing problems with the longer rotor MO-3000 and the possible cheap production caps showing up as CH-410 on the shelves (which seem to be produced more like the old NAPA Echlin caps that were offset ground in production). Another item to note is that the EI shafts were never drilled 100% perfect I have a lot of stock shafts that the hole is off center or diagonal drilled from the factory so it is paramount to align and drill the new gear all the way through and make sure the drill bit goes all the way through (supporting the gear on a piece of wood is good to keep the gear from cracking if you place too much pressure on the drill prematurely (I use a piece of wood I drilled to the diameter of the gear and cut to form a cradle and use it as well to support the gear and shaft while driving the pin through).

-D.Idiot

Yup, I agree with you, DI....and I caught the gist (sifted through) and understand that probably the most important thing is to not drill the new holes to close to the hole that comes in the nylon gear and to take caution when making the new holes. It is really a simple procedure that seems to have become complicated for no apparent reason.
I recently helped a fellow slanter with a problem with chronic chewed up nylon dist gears. He was using the hole supplied in the gear as the anchor part and stacked washers to make up the end play gap.......anyway for obvious reasons it kept failing..I showed him a distributor I rebuilt and one of your rebuilds to convince him that new holes and a tighter endplay gap was needed.