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 Post subject: resurrect from dead!???
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:32 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 4:39 pm
Posts: 131
Location: south greenfield, mo
Car Model:
drug home 65 dart /6, motor froze, put in another out of non runnin bone car. i replaced fusible link ( was fried), ( don't see any fried wires anywhere), have new coil, ballast resistor, hot battery, have fire at bulkhead in and out of car, motor turns over at switch, has fire both sides of ballast and coil. no fire at coil wire ( finger on it and i hate shock!) new points, condensor, rotor, have fire at points. test light at neg pole on coil when tuning over, shows constant light, not intermentent, points set and are opening and closing), NO fire at coil wire!??????i have no dwell meter but i do have shop manual. wish i was a rocket scientist or at least good shade tree mechanic!!! any help appreciated!!

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my email is billbarbee222@yahoo.com and ph is 417-350-5951 evenings before 8 p.m. central time please


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:18 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
Car Model:
Quote:
test light at neg pole on coil when tuning over, shows constant light, not intermentent
If your test light is connected from engine ground to coil (-) & the light never flickers/ flashes when cranking the starter- then the points aren't completing the circuit to ground. Disconnect coil (-), then connect your test light from the points lead to the distributor & to battery (+). Turn the engine over until the points are closed- no light? track down your open circuit.

Of course most folks on this forum would reccomend you "just" convert to electronic ignition or to HEI ignition. (either uses a later electronic distributor- one uses a factory Mopar ignition module while HEI uses a GM style module).

You should get a decent digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM)- dwell readings are nice but not critical. Also get a spark tester, like Thexton # TH 404 or TH 458 (much nicer then getting shocked).

_________________
63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 1:55 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 4:39 pm
Posts: 131
Location: south greenfield, mo
Car Model:
i did that, ran test light from battery to dist wire ( not attached to coil) current to points, they are opening and flashin. O K, i touch neg side of coil with dist wire, it sparks and test light then shows no current there ( neg coil), take wire off, and current IS there. i replaced the new coil with another new one today. i have moved new points and condensor to another (used) dist. SSOOooooo, heeelllppppp! LOL thanks for any advice...

_________________
my email is billbarbee222@yahoo.com and ph is 417-350-5951 evenings before 8 p.m. central time please


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 Post subject: latest
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 3:19 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 4:39 pm
Posts: 131
Location: south greenfield, mo
Car Model:
what little i have figured out is when wires hooked to coil out of wiring harbess and neg post coil wire to dist, i can get points moving, current yes out of neg coil. the ballast will show heat when held in my hand, NO i don't have meter to see how much is there or know how much should be on each end of ballast ( i know i need meter). very quickly, i will get NO current thru coil. if i do have a short somewhere i was hoping someone could suggest where to look. thanks again for any input.

_________________
my email is billbarbee222@yahoo.com and ph is 417-350-5951 evenings before 8 p.m. central time please


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