Hey guys, ive got a ammeter problem thats driving me crazy. My car has been doing a couple of strange things. Perhaps they're related somehow. As i mentioned, The ammeter reads at about +20 when i start the car. As soon as i accelerate it jumps to +40 for as long as i accelerate. On top of that i found that my wiper switch had a couple burned connectors. I had tried doing dans ammeter mod. Where u attatch some cables to the alternator and battery to take the load off but my battery sparked when i tried putting the negative post back on. So i never finished the mod. Earlier this week while trying to fix the problem. I noticed that the at the bulkhead connector labeled p was hot. I traced the cable and it leads to the alternator on one end and the ammeter on the other. So i decided to examine that wired a discovered gashes that the po covered with electrical tape. So i cut off the part with the gashes and spliced in a new cable. I thought this would help but it didnt do much. At this point im not sure what else to try. Also theres this wiered tick that the ammeter does. The needle rises a little, does this click and goes down just a tad. Also i noticed that when i accelerate it affects any lights that are on. Can anyone help pointe in thr right direction.

Unplug the voltage regulator, start the engine and see if the overcharging problem still exists. If so you have a short to ground on the far side of the field from the ignition switch; I forget the color of that wire. If the overcharging ceases you have a bad regulator.

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Joshua

My engine harness had a short that showed the same thing. Rewired the engine harness with all new wire and connectors and no more problems!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Have your battery tested. Low voltage due to under charging, and or no reserve storage capacity left in plates, voltage drop in harness where regulator reads voltage will cause over charge condition.


A dying battery at some point will not accept a charge no mater how much amperage the alternator cranks out.

A freshly charged good battery should show 13.2- 13.6 volts before activating starter. Once engine is running 13.6 to 14.2 volts is normal at battery.

While you are at it have the alternator tested, the third link in the circuit is VR, and you know its condition.

In addition to a possible worn out battery, you probably have a significant voltage drop in ignition/charging circuits adding to this problem.
Heat indicates corroded high resistance connection.

Corroded battery cable connections = high resistance.

Poor grounding of voltage regulator, and orange box if equipped = high resistance.

Additional resistance in any circuit will cause voltage drop, and heat; all those additional smaller resistances add up into one big resistance.

Whatever voltage regulator sees for voltage drop from normal (~14v), will signal alternator to output more voltage equal to the amount of voltage drop over normal set point of about 14 volts. So if you have 1.5 volt drop, add that 1.5 v to normal harness set point of ~14 volts you will see 15.5 volts at Battery; this will boil the electrolyte from battery over time and kill battery.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC