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 Post subject: valve lash..
PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 12:40 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I set the valve lash cold, then broke in the new rebuild, then set the lash hot and idling after break in.

I've now put about 1500 miles on the engine. I'm hearing some ticking, should I set the lash again or wait for higher mileage before resetting? I noted a few of the adjusters were maybe not as tight as some of the others, so maybe some have loosened.

On that note, if I have an adjuster that is not snug enough, i.e. coming loose, can I simply replace it by guestimating how far it was screwed in (measuring) and then set accurately once started up again? Can I replace an adjuster when there is valve spring pressure on the rocker arm, or do I have to bump until loose and then swap out the adjuster?

I think DD said to check the head bolts at this time as well, anybody else retorque their head bolts as a matter of course when doing the valve lash.

thanks all,

BG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 7:38 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Quote:
I think DD said to check the head bolts at this time as well, anybody else retorque their head bolts as a matter of course when doing the valve lash.
Yes!

Slight ticking is normal. The lighter the oil sometimes the louder it gets...
What weight are you running?

I am running Mobile 1 synthetic which seems to quiet the valve train down quite a bit compared to 10-30 Valvoline.

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 Post subject: Re: valve lash..
PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 9:59 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 658
Location: Cincinnati
Car Model:
Quote:
I set the valve lash cold, then broke in the new rebuild, then set the lash hot and idling after break in.

I've now put about 1500 miles on the engine. I'm hearing some ticking, should I set the lash again or wait for higher mileage before resetting? I noted a few of the adjusters were maybe not as tight as some of the others, so maybe some have loosened.

On that note, if I have an adjuster that is not snug enough, i.e. coming loose, can I simply replace it by guestimating how far it was screwed in (measuring) and then set accurately once started up again? Can I replace an adjuster when there is valve spring pressure on the rocker arm, or do I have to bump until loose and then swap out the adjuster?

I think DD said to check the head bolts at this time as well, anybody else retorque their head bolts as a matter of course when doing the valve lash.

thanks all,

BG
I am experiencing the same situation regarding loosening rocker arm settings. I milled the head on my '72 Valiant and installed custom shortened pushrods (roughly the amount I milled the head) and new rocker arms. A few of them loosened up with in what seems like a months time. I have checked them and the problematic ones are easier to turn/adjust. Short of using a jamb nut or marring the screw in the rocker arm so it turns tighter there is no other solution but finding a rocker arm with a tight fitting adjuster screw that won't back off.
When I have some spare time my plan is to rummage through my rocker arm stash find appropriate ones to take the place of the defective ones and, sure, while I am in there I will also check the head bolts, it doesn't cost you anything to do it. Its a good preventative check since you have the valve cover off.
I know I can get the valve train quieter so I will continue until I accomplish this. It was much quieter when it was stock, before I did the mill job, and I can get it almost tick free when I adjust them now but then those 2 or 3 three defective adjuster arms back off and the slant 6 symphony begins. Good luck


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 Post subject: interesting...
PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 11:48 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I'm running Valvoline 10W-30...maybe I should try the synthetic..

Anyway, I can't help it, I'm pulling the valve cover and trying some more valve lash adjustment. I'm pretty sure I can get it quieter than it is, and a few of the adjusters seemed a bit looser than others. I have some new adjusters.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 11:49 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 4:39 am
Posts: 519
Location: Australia
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Maybe clean the threads and try loctite on them?


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 Post subject: valve lash...
PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 12:01 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I'm pretty sure I haven't spent enough time with my valve adjusters, last time I went through the row a couple times, but maybe I should spend some quality.


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 Post subject: Re: valve lash...
PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:16 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 658
Location: Cincinnati
Car Model:
Quote:
I'm pretty sure I haven't spent enough time with my valve adjusters, last time I went through the row a couple times, but maybe I should spend some quality.
If yours got louder in 1500 miles of use then I'd bet you had them adjusted pretty close to specs when you set them. I think you have a few problematic ones that need attention to prevent the adjustment from loosening. I am presently using a synthetic 5W30 in my car and also tried some thicker viscosity oil to see if it would help quiet the valvetrain. It didn't work for me so I'm back to 5w30 and replacing the loosening rockers should solve the problem.


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 Post subject: thanks...
PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:31 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I'd stay away from more viscous oils, puts a strain on the oil pump.

Anyway, look above, mobile one synthetic may actually calm the ticking a bit.

I have new adjusters, so I'll get back in there and if any of the suspects has loosened out of adjustment, I'll replace them. I could mar the threads a bit with a hammer and put back in, but I happen to have some new Clevites in a box somewhere, so...

I'll keep the old ones though, parts are becoming more rare.

I was inspired by these videos of before and after...I know if I spend enough quality time with my valve train I too can do it right. It sounds like the after video has way less tick to me at least.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWORt8htFPU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9asOuJUcKw

BG


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