Hello,
I recently replaced all ball joints on my 72car valiant. Parts were incorrect from Rock auto, so for the sake of speedy install i wound up sourcing the correct parts locally.
A friend of mine made the repairs, and i picked the car up.
first thing i noticed was the steering wheel off by about 45°. Car tracks down the road nicely, however a bit twitchy. I asked him when i picked it up if i should get an alignment. He said not necessary. The inside of both tires now have worn considerably after only 50 miles. This is ok, now im taking for an alignment. Will the shop be able to not only correct toe, but get the wheel where it should be?
This is something, (alignment) i have not studied.
Thanks for any comments

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72 plymouth valiant
46 plymouth hotrod

I see you have already learned how good his advice was.
Excellent-- I highly recommend that approach! The only other choice is the school of hard knocks. Most of us have tried both, and often been pleasantly surprised at what we wish we'd learned by reading about it first. Google might keep you occupied for a few days... or even better, find a copy of Stockel's Auto Mechanics Fundamentals-- used on Amazon, probably a few dollars. I have a 1969 edition and a 1990 edition, just out of curiosity to see how much has changed-- either one describes caster, camber, and toe in a few short pages. (Point being, almost any year will work for what you want to know.)

Yes, all of those are adjustable on your car, though only within narrow limits. Assuming good parts, a competent shop should be able to make the car feel like new-- the twitchiness is almost certainly related to toe-in.

The challenge is finding a shop with a Graybeard working there... if the young kids pushing buttons on the alignment rack have never seen anything other than Hondas, they won't have a clue how to adjust anything other than toe. Seriously, it won't take you more than a few hours of reading, to know more than many alignment dudes. Find a place that specializes in antiques or classics, and you'll have a car that feels surprisingly enjoyable to drive. These Chrysler designs were far ahead of their time, so don't let anyone tell you that twitchy is ok.

- Erik

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Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.

I would make a thread asking if any other New Yorkers know of a good alignment shop in your area. Like mpgfanatic said, you're going to need an old school guy to do it. I found a shop in my area that has some old school guys there and I've never came away disappointed. Took my car to Les Schwab for an alignment a few years back and they tried to tell me they needed $20 extra per tie rod because they had to take them off to align the toe. I told them I had no idea what they were talking about and they just needed to loosen the bolts on the adjuster and turn it to align the toe. The guy told me it wasn't up for discussion so I had him give me my car back and I took it to this other shop that hooked me up no problem. The price was about $30 more than Les Schwabs base price (not including their $20 per tie rod scam) but it's well worth it knowing it was done right.

Oh yeah, the get it into the green "toe-n-go" knuckle heads...

I set the front end ride height to factory specs before car gets to the alignment rack because it is the most critical and first of the four adjustments to be set leaving just three adjustments; camber, castor, and toe.

When I get the car back home I recheck ride height to see if they monkeyed around with it; if ride height has changed the alignment is no good. Car handling will be funky, and often PS will squeal with protest at full lock.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I recently took one of my saturns to sears for alignment.
alignment was 69.95 i believe.
when you get your car back, the clerk gives you a printout which shows you all the now corrected measurments "in the green".
When i asked why they are "at acceptable range, within limits" and not the at exact factory spec, the man said the mechanics are reluctant to try to loosen bolts which have not been disturbed in along time.
THEREFORE, you get an acceptable range alignment.
wow.sounds like its just easier to make money this way.

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72 plymouth valiant
46 plymouth hotrod

Definitely a quicker way to separate unsuspecting folks from $69.95 and not take any time to do any work. I would go somewhere else! Chain stores - UGH!

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

The wear you describe on your tires and the handling points to excessive toe in. Many guys recommend 0 degrees toe with radials. If it tracks straight, chances are the caster is OK, but may also be too little. At least it is even. Is this power steering or manual? When you have it aligned, do as Bill says and be sure to set the ride height first. This effects everything else. Word from those who have played with different specs is up to 4 degrees caster will give you better road feel without causing problems.

You can set the toe-in yourself with a set of poles, strings and a ruler. I have thought about using a pair of those cheap laser devices for hanging pictures on the wall. Center your steering wheel first and then adjust the tie rod arm sleeves until both tires point straight ahead and are aligned parallel to each other. That is what the strings and poles are for.

Sam

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