Hi I have a Slant six in a 1975 Dodge 100. I have converted it to run stationary as a power unit. I removed the original fuel tank, so now fuel comes from a 10 gallon plastic tank I placed on the ground under the engine. The fuel routes to the original, on engine, mechanical fuel pump then to a fuel filter then to the carb. Three observations.

1 - When I press the gas pedal to get the engine up over 2000 rpm, it starts to stutter, at this point when I spray in starting fluid it revs up real well. This makes me think I have a fuel supply issue to the carb.

2 - I have a clear fuel filter. When the engine is running I can see fuel has filled the bottom 1/4 of the fuel filter. When I turn off the engine, this fuel slowly drains out back towards the pump and the tank.

So my question is, why can't I rev up the engine past 2000rpm? Thanks

Sorry just realized this is the fuel injection section. I suppose my carburator question will be laughed at now.

A moderator will move it to the Engine section later, but I would say:

The carb may need to be rebuilt typically the carb is in the main circuit at 2000 rpm so it sounds like it needs to be cleaned out and rebuilt.

Other thoughts: possibly the engine may need a tune up and the valves lashed if it is a 1975 unit. I would also think that it may need to have the timing chain checked if not replaced in it's lifetime.

-D.Idiot

Thanks, that sounds like solid advice. The rpm at which it cuts out could be lower, the tachometer stopped working during the move. So, woudl you still be confident its the carb if it was cutting out at say 1500 rpm? How easy is it to check the diagram, do i just unbolt the pump off the block?

Timing chain, valve tuning, sounds like solid advice. Is it catastrophic if the timing chain goes? Do chains even go? or just stretch.

That then would put it into the transition circuit which is part idle and almost main so then I'd worry about something being clogged.
It's not that easy since the lever is spring loaded and tough to exercise by hand and inspect...if you are worried more about volume, you can put a hose on the output side and into a jar and pull the coil wire then roll the engine over with a remote switch and see how fast it fills up 1/2 the jar (slant pumps are pretty healthy and should give you lots of fuel in a couple of cranks).
Valve lash is pretty important in the mech cam motors, if it's too tight the engine may not run or will be choppy and tough to get running...if it's a little loose it should run OK, but not at peak efficiency...

The chains stretch and eventually just skip a tooth (on the OEM engines the plastic tooth on the aluminum gear can chip and cause the chain to jump...but that's about 9 degrees of timing on the stocker chain), if it's stretched your timing light may show the line on the damper moving back and forth at set rpm...or if you pull the dist cap, and roll the engine one way then the other by hand and there is a delay in the rotor moving it needs replacing (you are gaining or losing about 4-10 degrees of timing...and with an EI distributor a wide variation can cause it to not start depending on how far out it is).

-D.Idiot