Can someone explain too me why if my dampner mark is set to zero ( I know I am at TDC when it is so ) that my dist rotor will be pointing after the number one plug.

Too better explain with dampner mark in line with zero mark on indicator attached to timing chain cover my dist rotor is a bit past the number one spot on my dist. about ( maybe a bit greater than ) the halfway point beyond number one to number 5 spot.

I thought this was in indication of it firing after TDC. I know I need it too fire 6-8 before TDC.

The truck is a bit hard too start ( not very hard just not easy ) and it diesels if I run it long enough too get hot.

Truck runs fine/OK otherwise, no lack of power, maybe a light pinging when accelerating hard but that might be cheap gas with a new motor or it might have something to do with not hooking up the advance yet in the dist.

Yes. The rotor is pointing after the spot you have marked as under the #1 tower because you need to rotate the distributor body clockwise. That is why the distributor body can be rotated - to adjust the timing.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Timing at TDC is only good for some distributors and only at idle so the rotor should be at the trailing edge of the distributor terminal and move towards the leading edge of the terminal as the advance comes in. If this isn't the case the outer ring on the damper may have slipped and you're not really at TDC or the rotor/breaker cam phasing is off.

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Joshua

reed is correct that to set static that you rotate the mark on the damper to line up the 0 on the timing tab...since you are using the late timing tab the other marks are BTDC, so if the rotor is set to the #1 tower and you are say at 5 on the tab, it should run fine to start with (if it is in the tube section that is retarded and it needs to be realigned).

I take it that your machinist found out why it wasn't oiling to the top of the engine, and all is well?


-D.Idiot

I did not mean too get you involved answering questions two different ways, you are replying via e-mail and now here, you seem busy, it is a busy time of year for many people. For me it is just another day, I am trying to get this thing done.

Also everyone has different ways of expressing things and one way you phrase something might not sink into my head but someone else might say the exact same thing but in a different way and it will click.

No disrespect intended.

Like I had mentioned via e-mail if I rotate the dist body toward the firewall of clockwise than the timing marks on the dampner get further away from where they need to be.

This helps, more info, thanks, something to consider

I wish I could get it too 5, if I turn the dist housing counterclockwise enough to try too get it too 5 than it will bog down and die long before it gets there.

This is something that I wanted confirmation on...........since you are using the late timing tab the other marks are BTDC...............Thanks

No machinest was useless, Reed and Charlie were a big help. I installed a new pump, realized that I was missing the drainback tube ( thanks machinest ) so installed that, primed it with vaseline and it had good oil pressure.

Thanks for asking

I dont mean too repeat posts but as long as its on my mind again.......I found out on another thread I have going here that I have an early dampner on my engine right now, evidently if I understood correctly it is pre-1980 cause it has several hash marks around its circumference, pictured here is the dampner that is on my 1984 spare engine.

Quote: To set the valve lash on pre-1980 engines that had solid lifters.

Maybe he didnt mean it was pre-1980, not sure

The one that is on my engine that is in my truck is a cast version, the area where I am pointing too here is cast and heavy looking. As you can see this 1984 dampner is a stamped steel version

Not sure how the engines are balanced but maybe its not going to make a difference, maybe I should be concerned and make the swap??

Im gonna head back too the shop and verify some things Reed mentioned in all these e-mails and you guys are saying here on posts, will report back a bit later.

Im gonna remove that valve cover again and start from scratch again, things are just not making sense and I dont want to waste anyones time

You're pointing to a stamped steel pulley which is bolted to the front of the damper. If you have a piston stop you can find true TDC and see how far off the marks on the damper are in relation to the timing tab.

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Joshua

My mistake again, I was confused because of all the lines on the dampner that is on my truck right now, I went by the line I should have been using.

I believe that now I have the correct timing mark and I will be able to get it timed closer. Thanks everyone for their help

Attached is a picture of the dampner that is on my engine now, is this the incorrect dampner for my engine?

So if thats correct than this particular dampner was made with only two grooves and the third ( groove ) was added in the form of an extra pulley bolted too the front?

Im gonna check out how far things are off if at all once I am told which dampner is correct for my truck.

Passenger car and early engines of all kinds had the one pulley machined into the damper. If you had AC from the factory you got a pulley bolted to the back of the damper. If you had power steering you had a pulley bolted to the front. I don't know when big multi-groove damper came about, but someone here will.

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Joshua

It was in the late 70's...this damper is similar to the 440 damper, I have one of these style motors in my storage unit...so far I catch this style of damper on the trucks that were D-150's with the NP-435 4 speed and know of one that was on an industrial slant, although I have seen one that was transplanted into a 1974 Valiant in the junkyard (not original equipment...LOL).

-D.idiot