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1945 carb
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Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 2:50 am ]
Post subject:  1945 carb
New post and hopefully less confusing.

Charlie mentioned in a previous post ...........Down load the 1945 manual since they are free from the Engine FAQ section on this site............I click on the faq link at the top of the page but I see nothing that leads me to carbs. Can someone tell me where I can find this manual mentioned?

Dusteridiot said..........Note while this is true, the calibration will be different between the vehicle types and sometimes between the years (main jets vary between #58 in the 1974 cars to #61 in the 1976 cars to #63 or so in the trucks), also there are some differences in equipment offered on the the manual versions and the automatic versions (dash pot and later electric throttle hold off solenoid to prevent lean out during coasting while the throttle plates are shut at high speeds...aka "shooting ducks". ..............

At this point alot of this is over my head but I will figure it out, he mentions main jets as possibly being a problem......how can I tell if the carb I plan to use is the correct carb for a 1976 vehicle which it was removed from?

I would imagine I will then need to change main jets? I assume that this needs to be changed because I am attempting to use it on a 6000 pound truck and the carb simply is not set up for that, sound correct?

How will I know what main jet I will need and where will I get this?

He also mentioned this..........also there are some differences in equipment offered on the the manual versions and the automatic versions (dash pot and later electric throttle hold off solenoid to prevent lean out during coasting while the throttle plates are shut at high speeds..............This is way beyond my pay grade, will someone explain all of this too me so that I can understand what I should be concerned about and correct the problem?

Getting the best fuel economy is important too me.

Alot of other good points/tips were made. Can someone confirm by looking at this carb that I am headed in the right direction with what I need for the truck.

Can someone tell me what this deal is that I am pointing too. The casting is the same as my other carbs only there is no fitting. Blocked off. I am assuming I can remove whatever this is and block this off?

I dont see this fitting on my vacuum hose routing diagram.

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Here are pictures again of the carb I plan too use.

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Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 3:04 am ]
Post subject: 
I was also hoping someone could tell me what the deal was with this removable fitting. Looking at my vacuum diagram I see that it goes to charcoal canister.

While it was suggested to me that I keep this canister for fuel economy unfortunately it was not suggested before I tossed it :(

Maybe I need to find another one and mount it???

I am wondering why on my other carbs as far as I know this fitting is non-removable?

Lastly I am posting pict of the #s on side of carb. I am going to try and google these #s too find out what exactly I have here as far as vintage of carb.

It was obviously replaced at some point since its not original too the car and I guess I need to know if it was a correct replacement.

EDIT: I was able to find this information on-line, someone with same numbers on their carb posted the very same question just a few months ago and this was the reply, assuming the reply given was correct..........The carb is a 1945 for a 1975 225 plymouth and the carb kit is 679A/679B,this is one of dozens of this type of carb use on the 225.The carb re-builder is Autoline out of western Canada,they do allot of different auto parts

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Thanks for all the help
Author:  ceej [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 3:04 am ]
Post subject: 
If you look down through the links in the FAQ you will see "Carburetor operation and repair information."

When you arrive at that page, there will be a link for "Holley 1945..." right at the top.

CJ
Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 3:16 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
If you look down through the links in the FAQ you will see "Carburetor operation and repair information."

When you arrive at that page, there will be a link for "Holley 1945..." right at the top.

CJ
Thanks, still cannot find it, I moved the question over to the site issues place.
Author:  Reed [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 7:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Image

This is the idle air enrichment valve that was used on some, but not all, carburetors. It is a vacuum operated device, but I am not 100% sure off the top of my head how one goes about hooking it up properly. You need to find the manual you have been referred to and read up on it. If you are positive that the carb is off of a 75 slant six, then you may need to actually track down a 1975 factory service manual and see how that fitting is plumbed into the vacuum system on the engine.

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That fitting is not supposed to come out of the carb. Over time the fitting has been worked loose or the sealant used to hold the fitting in the carb body has worn out or been eaten away by gasoline fumes. You could try resealing the fitting in the carb body and sealing it with something like locktite or RTV sealant.

Fine, HERE is the Holley 1945 manual, and HERE is the Chrysler training video on the Holley 1945 carb.

I highly recommend reinstalling the charcoal canister. There is really no good reason not to have one. It has no negative effect on performance, it saves you money by capturing and storing gasoline fumes that would others evaporate out of the carb and pollute the atmosphere, and it helps your engine start easier.
Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Image

This is the idle air enrichment valve that was used on some, but not all, carburetors. It is a vacuum operated device, but I am not 100% sure off the top of my head how one goes about hooking it up properly. You need to find the manual you have been referred to and read up on it. If you are positive that the carb is off of a 75 slant six, then you may need to actually track down a 1975 factory service manual and see how that fitting is plumbed into the vacuum system on the engine.

Image

That fitting is not supposed to come out of the carb. Over time the fitting has been worked loose or the sealant used to hold the fitting in the carb body has worn out or been eaten away by gasoline fumes. You could try resealing the fitting in the carb body and sealing it with something like locktite or RTV sealant.

Fine, HERE is the Holley 1945 manual, and HERE is the Chrysler training video on the Holley 1945 carb.

I highly recommend reinstalling the charcoal canister. There is really no good reason not to have one. It has no negative effect on performance, it saves you money by capturing and storing gasoline fumes that would others evaporate out of the carb and pollute the atmosphere, and it helps your engine start easier.
Ok great, just for the heck of it switched carbs, this new one started the truck, idled fine/fantastic but it would seem at this point when the engine was up too operating temp. the carb decided to no longer idle.

I am letting it cool down now to see if I can mimic the same scenario.

I see now what all the talk was about when it came to throttle shafts being worn, just wiggling the old original carbs shaft and their is alot of slop, up down, side to side ect.

At least this new carb I picked up has no movement whatsoever. Even if it still needs gone thru I have a better starting point I guess because of that.

I am printing out the 1945 manual as I type and will read and re-read to try and get a better understanding.
Author:  wjajr [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:12 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Ok great, just for the heck of it switched carbs, this new one started the truck, idled fine/fantastic but it would seem at this point when the engine was up too operating temp. the carb decided to no longer idle.
While choke is on it can mask a vacuum leak. On engine up to operating temperature close choke and see if idle smooths out, if so start looking for vacuum leak.

Check trueness of carburetor base with a good straight edge, a deformed base will present a big vacuum leak that spraying car cleaner may not detect because size or length of leaking contact area. Other suspects would be vacuum advance, throttle return dashpot if equipped or any new vacuum operated devices introduced when second carburetor was installed.
Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Ok great, just for the heck of it switched carbs, this new one started the truck, idled fine/fantastic but it would seem at this point when the engine was up too operating temp. the carb decided to no longer idle.
While choke is on it can mask a vacuum leak. On engine up to operating temperature close choke and see if idle smooths out, if so start looking for vacuum leak.

Check trueness of carburetor base with a good straight edge, a deformed base will present a big vacuum leak that spraying car cleaner may not detect because size or length of leaking contact area. Other suspects would be vacuum advance, throttle return dashpot if equipped or any new vacuum operated devices introduced when second carburetor was installed.
Ok at this point it is as I suspected, the truck starts no problem with a stab of the accelerator choke closes and it fires immediately, once warmed up and choke open it will not idle at all.

This carb is different still than the carb that is shown in the 1945 manual I downloaded, the low idle speed adjustor screw for instance is not on the carb that I am working on and quite frankly I do not see how to adjust the idle speed.

On the rear of the solenoid/plunger deal that is on my original carb the adjustment is made there for idle ( again different from the 1945 manual I downloaded ) and I was able to easily adjust the idle but I simply am not seeing where the adjustment is made on this 1975 carb.

I will check out the things you mentioned and report back though.

It is popping thru the carb ( sometimes ) after warmed up and I try to give it gas, if I am ever so gentle than I guess I can get it too get some Rpms up but it still seems to be struggling.

I have re-checked the timing and it is set at about 10-12 maybe 13 or 14 BTDC. No dieseling like it had been.
Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:54 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Ok great, just for the heck of it switched carbs, this new one started the truck, idled fine/fantastic but it would seem at this point when the engine was up too operating temp. the carb decided to no longer idle.
While choke is on it can mask a vacuum leak. On engine up to operating temperature close choke and see if idle smooths out, if so start looking for vacuum leak.

Check trueness of carburetor base with a good straight edge, a deformed base will present a big vacuum leak that spraying car cleaner may not detect because size or length of leaking contact area. Other suspects would be vacuum advance, throttle return dashpot if equipped or any new vacuum operated devices introduced when second carburetor was installed.
Nope, once its warmed up closing the choke again doesnt seem to correct the problem, seems to help a bit cause the idle increases but the idle turns choppy.

I guess I will need to find the specific info for this 1975 carb including adjustment procedures and preferably tear down/re-assy procedures.

If anyone here can help with this info let me know. Doing a google search and not coming up with anything specific.

Trying to find a manual is only showing me Haynes, if they are anything like Chiltons than they are useless from what I have.

EDIT: Still searching for clues/answers, I am seeing posts that are giving details such as ..........I also noticed that the accelerator pump link is in the middle slot on my Carb which I understand is for manual transmissions? It needs to go in the top slot for the Auto? ..............

I know nothing about such things nor would dream of looking for such problems.

I may have too throw in the towel on this carb. Tough to fix something when you dont know what your doing.

If there is anyone here that has alot of carb experience with this particular carb and has the time to help me work thru this thru e-mail than I would like to go thru it thoroughly and correctly.

I understand though that time is hard to come by for everyone.

In the meantime Im gonna keep piddling along with it

Thanks for the efforts
Author:  ceej [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:51 am ]
Post subject: 
There is a Frequently Asked Questions "Thread" in the Engine area of the Forum. Look there. It is a sticky near the top.

CJ
Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 2:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
[quote="Reed"]Image

This is the idle air enrichment valve that was used on some, but not all, carburetors. It is a vacuum operated device, but I am not 100% sure off the top of my head how one goes about hooking it up properly. You need to find the manual you have been referred to and read up on it. If you are positive that the carb is off of a 75 slant six, then you may need to actually track down a 1975 factory service manual and see how that fitting is plumbed into the vacuum system on the engine.

Reed, dont you think that I should be able to use the air horn from one of these spare carbs to eliminate this deal?

Also dusteridiot mentioned something about checking the air horn too make sure it was not warped, ( If I understood correctly ) didnt go into any detail. What can be recommend for this?
Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 2:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
There is a Frequently Asked Questions "Thread" in the Engine area of the Forum. Look there. It is a sticky near the top.

CJ
Im gonna check it out now, thanks
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 2:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Did you pop the top on the new one to see if the float bowl is full of old varnish or any other debris?

Did you down load the 1945 manual from the Engine FAQ section? Carbs manuals are about 15 or so titles down the list.
Look for this.....
Post subject: Carburetor operation & repair information (Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:03 pm) Reply with quote
Here is the Holley 1945 operation and repair manual (pdf), and here is the Chrysler training film on the Holley 1945.

The training film should really help you with your questions.

Yes, I do run the fuel vapor canister as it eliminates the fuel smells from under the hood and makes for a tidy set up. Even though I replaced my 1945 with a 1920 Economaster it has the similar fittings and lines.

These Holley carbs are not hard to tune.....just follow the instructions.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 2:20 pm ]
Post subject:  2 things...
Quote:
Also dusteridiot mentioned something about checking the air horn too make sure it was not warped, ( If I understood correctly ) didnt go into any detail. What can you recommend for this?
Basically when you pull it apart for cleaning, use a straight edge on the mating surfaces and see if they are indeed "flat" (you can use a thin feeler gauge to check between the straight edge and mating surface...say a .003 if you have one in your set).

The Idle Air Enrichment Valve can be left alone if you live anyplace below Denver, just leave it uncapped and it will not function for the flat landers and hill drivers...

The linkage adjustments and choke plate clearance can also be found in your rebuild kit instruction sheet (and you can change the adjustments to suit your vehicle as needed). My first carb to rebuild was a Carter BBD of a 1969 383, with no experiece I just took it apart and laid all the pieces in order that I disassembled it then cleaned each part and followed the instructions in the rebuild kit to reassemble and adjust...It's not that hard, just takes time.

Note that swapping parts sometimes works, or can be a disaster...this is why reman carbs have such a bad rep, they just throw a set of parts from 3 different carbs together and expect the thing to run.

-D.Idiot
Author:  1930 [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Did you pop the top on the new one to see if the float bowl is full of old varnish or any other debris?

Did you down load the 1945 manual from the Engine FAQ section? Carbs manuals are about 15 or so titles down the list.
Look for this.....
Post subject: Carburetor operation & repair information (Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:03 pm) Reply with quote
Here is the Holley 1945 operation and repair manual (pdf), and here is the Chrysler training film on the Holley 1945.

The training film should really help you with your questions.

Yes, I do run the fuel vapor canister as it eliminates the fuel smells from under the hood and makes for a tidy set up. Even though I replaced my 1945 with a 1920 Economaster it has the similar fittings and lines.

These Holley carbs are not hard to tune.....just follow the instructions.
No I had not done that yes cause I do not have the gasket set yet, I figured no sense pulling it apart if I could not put it back together cause no new gasket set.

Yes I down loaded and printed, no I did not see the film yet, my computer does not have the software to read it, I will try opening it on another comp.

Will check everything out, thanks
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