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 Post subject: HEI conversion question
PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 6:54 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Two questions about the info/diagrams in SSD's HEI conversion post here:

1. #86 trigger feed wire looks as if the only option from where to splice is right where the wires previously connected to the ballast resistor. Since I used two spade connectors to re-use the push-on connectors instead of nipping them off, this isn't a great location for me to splice off the trigger feed wire. The wires are old and brittle. Where else can I run my trigger feed wire from? Maybe the brown wire connected to the starter motor? Any other choices?

2. #87 I'm supposed to run to the positive side of the coil and the "module's power terminal.". Well, my E-core coil came with a watertight connector and a few inches of wire from two of the pins. The positive side has already been connected to module terminal B using the existing single wire. If I have to connect to the coil positive side again, there's no provision on the watertight connector for another wire. I would have to splice out this wire and lead off to #86. That about right?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:02 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: York NE
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1. #86 trigger feed wire looks as if the only option from where to splice is right where the wires previously connected to the ballast resistor. Since I used two spade connectors to re-use the push-on connectors instead of nipping them off, this isn't a great location for me to splice off the trigger feed wire. The wires are old and brittle. Where else can I run my trigger feed wire from? Maybe the brown wire connected to the starter motor? Any other choices?

The wire from the ballast resistor goes no where if you have removed the original Mopar ignition set up, so instead of bridging the resistor you can trigger the relay there or extend from there to the relay with out worrying about the old wire from the resistor.

2. #87 I'm supposed to run to the positive side of the coil and the "module's power terminal.". Well, my E-core coil came with a watertight connector and a few inches of wire from two of the pins. The positive side has already been connected to module terminal B using the existing single wire. If I have to connect to the coil positive side again, there's no provision on the watertight connector for another wire. I would have to splice out this wire and lead off to #86. That about right?

You can use a piggyback connector at the B terminal on the module so that both the coil and module are fed B+ from the relay or you could splice into the middle of the wire you have there already, either does the same thing.

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 11:15 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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The ballast resistor has two connectors that plug in on either side. The input has one connector with two green wires feeding in, the output has one connector with two green wires feeding out, going back into the wiring harness.

So let's say I plug in to the 'input' into the ballast, leaving the original 'output' connector taped off. It has two wires. One green wire should lead to the coil+. But there are two wires leading off from the output connector. Where does the other one go?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:50 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: York NE
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The ballast has 4 terminals, 2 are connected to the coil (originally), 1 to ignition run from the ign switch, 1 to start from the ign switch. You will want to connect the run lead to your new setup, insulate the start lead, and ignore the old lead to the coil from the ballast.

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:48 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:57 am
Posts: 1566
Location: Oslo, Norway
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The #86 terminal on the relay can be fed from any wire that has power when the ignition switch is in the 'run' position. It shall only be provided with current when you switch your ignition 'On', and cuts the engine by cutting the power when you switch the ignition key to 'Off'.

Re: #87
Maybe some of the info in this thread may assist you: Gm Hei Module Conversion Troubles

Olaf

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:52 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Dave-

Sorry: your explanation doesn't make sense to me. The ballast resistor on my 63 Dart has two terminal posts, not four. Each connector has two wires leading from it.

The 'output' side of the ballast has a connector with two green wires. I assume these two both (somehow both) go to my ignition coil, even though only one emerges from the wiring harness (along the valve cover), to connect to the coil+.

The 'input' side of the ballast has two wires which I assume are my ignition start and run leads. So the assumption is that I could plug in to the start and run lead connector and leave the coil leads hanging. But again, while one of these green leads goes to the coil+, I don't know where the other ends.

Wish I got the wiring pattern a little better.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 7:55 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: York NE
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I apologize, I misunderstood you. With a 2 terminal ballast the "start" lead bypasses the ballast. The "run" is the ballast input, the start is one of the 2 wires on the output side. What year is your car so we can look up a wiring diagram?

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 10:39 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Quote:
The ballast resistor on my 63 Dart


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:10 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: York NE
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According to my 62 book, 1 lead from ballast to coil, 1 (brown) to bulkhead connector pin 4 on 6 pin block to ign 2 on ign switch, the other end,1 (dk blue) to regulator, 1 (dk blue) to pin 5 on 6 pin block of bulkhead connector to ign 1 on ign switch.

if you feed from the 2 blue wires you have power with switch in run but not in start, if you use only the brown wire you only have power in start, if you tie both blue wires and the brown wire that goes to the bulkhead together for your trigger lead you have power in start and run. determine which brown wire has power in start and leave the other one out and you should be good.
I do not know how to post pictures or I'd send a scan of the schematic.

_________________
Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car


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 Post subject: Check here
PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 1:06 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:17 am
Posts: 20
Location: australia
Car Model:
Have a look here and make a selection:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=26

regards,Rod.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 8:14 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: York NE
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Thanks Rod.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63ValiantA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1963/63ValiantB.jpg

_________________
Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 11:57 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Posts: 797
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Thanks guys. Posting an update in a new thread.


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