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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 4:14 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
I am installing a B&M Quick Silver shifter, which seems to function nicely in its mount on the tunnel, but I am having questions about how to run the cable. It says in the instruction manual, "AVOID SHARP BENDS WHICH WILL KINK AND DAMAGE THE CABLE, (their caps and bold). Avoid contact with hot engine or exhaust system".

With the 5' long cable supplied it is pretty near impossible to get past the Dutra duals and keep it very far away away from the hot engine or exhaust, AND avoid sharp bends. There is just not much space there. Anybody out there with a cable shifter care to weigh in here? How long a cable did you end up using, and how did you route it? How close is it to the exhaust and engine in terms of inches? How tight a bend do you have in it? I currently have it roughed in around the starter and back over the exhaust pipes, and zip tied to the lowest steel trans brace hole. The tranny is still not in the car, and the engine is sitting low, so things will change once I get the trans installed. If I am going to keep it away from the engine, I will have to install a small bracket on the fender to zip tie it to. I currently have about an 18" diameter loop in it. Thanks for any tips.

I have to question myself and/or the B&M writers. In the instructions they say push the trans lever all the way forward into park. That has got to be wrong. Mine goes into park with the lever all the way back. Or so it seems. You can hear the pall engage and the output shaft locks up in the rear most position of the lever. Somebody reinforce my conclusions here if you will. It has been maybe 15 years since I took the auto out of this car, and my memory is pretty shaky at this point. The instructions say "Made in China". That may explain something. But then everything gets thrown into question.

Sam

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:24 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14850
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I always run mine past the starter, down along the block, and back to the trans. I have never had any issue with it against the motor, but definitely keep it off the exhaust.

I cut a notch out of the support bracket for the bellhousing and ran the cable through it. That kept it against the oil pan rail and off the exhaust.

IIRC, you ate correct, park is all the way back.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:27 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
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Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Thanks Dennis, That sounds like a good idea. Do you know how tight a bend you made in the cable? Also, do you have any idea how long a cable is on yours? I t h ink 5 feet may be a bit short for where I have the shifter mounted.

Sam

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 11:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Mine were all 5' too.

Once you start routing the cable you will see how tight you can bend it. I try to keep the radius as large as possible.

The big thing is not making it too sharp from the shifter to the hole in the floor. I always put the hole farther away than most just to make it easy on the cable.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:21 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
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Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Thanks again. That is a big help. I had to make the hole further forward to avoid the cross member. It sounds as if yours might be touching the oil pan behind the steel brace.

Sam

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:56 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
If you think it's too close to a heat source, you can always put on a heat shield.

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 5:24 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 9335
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I too route mine like Dennis and drill a hole and tie it fast to the bracket that bolts to the belhousing. Where mine was closest to the header,I slit a piece of 3/8" fuel line and put it around the cable for some added insulation. I did buy a piece of the heat shield at Carlisle this summer and I will install that around it while my car is all apart. I think it may have been for spark plug wires.

Rick

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 5:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I too route mine like Dennis and drill a hole and tie it fast to the bracket that bolts to the belhousing. Where mine was closest to the header,I slit a piece of 3/8" fuel line and put it around the cable for some added insulation. I did buy a piece of the heat shield at Carlisle this summer and I will install that around it while my car is all apart. I think it may have been for spark plug wires.

Rick

This from Romeo Furio talking about my car and shifter:
Quote:
FYI,,I'm running the same shifter. If you have a 60'' cable I went to the passenger side of the tranny,ran it under the bellhousing in the gap between it and the pan rail and up to the bracket that way it stayed away from the exhaust. I also ran the cooler lines to the rear,under the tailshaft and up the passenger side.More room on that side and no exhaust to worry about.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:34 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Thanks again for the ideas. Now the trans is in, this task is up on the list. I still must get the coolant lines in, which I will do in the next few days.

Sam

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