Apparently they have improved them. The last one I did still had elastomer in it.
This getting old stuff sucks.
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| 73 idler arm https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54464 |
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| Author: | paly73 [ Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 73 idler arm |
LOL 73 swinger idler arm, bolt on frame comes down from the top! lol how am i suppose to get it out?? paul |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Yep... |
Pull the motor mounts and jack up the engine from the oil pan using a block of wood and rock it to the driver's side...sometimes that gives some clearance to do it...sometimes you have to pull the engine entirely to get it out... All of my dusters I pull the engine, then reinstall the bolt upside down (nut on top), then drill the threaded section above the nut and put a large hair pin in there to keep the nut from backing off and the bolt from falling out on a rough road trip...Works great, and easy to replace the idler arm in case it is a imported part and wears out quickly... -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | paly73 [ Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 73 idler arm |
thanks duster, now pls your thoughts on my other post. 73 torsion bars ty paul |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What about taking the nut off and use something to push the bolt up from the bottom... with the head sticking up, cut it off then pull the whole mess through the bottom. If you can get a cutting disc in there your set. If not, a sawzall may work but will take longer. It may be a pain but less of one then messing with the motor. The aftermarket idlers come with nylon or all metal locknuts and the bolt. |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Take the time to unbolt the motor and jack it up. That way you can put the new bolt in from the top like it is supposed to be. The idea is that IF the nut comes off the bolt wll stay in. Also, when tightening the new nut do not crank it down as tight as you can get it. The idea to the locknut is so you can leave the bolt slightly loose to avoid tearing the bushing out of the new arm. The sleeve in the bushing has to turn on the bolt. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I don't think the sleeve is meant to turn on the bolt. Service manual calls for 65 ft-lb. That's plenty to pinch the sleeve tight in the K. If you left it loose, won't the idler wobble depending on how tight the bolt diameter is? Or the hole in the K may get egged out. I cut apart a brand new replacement Moog idler. There is no bushing in it, just metal on metal. Surprised me. Why did I cut it up? This. Should make it a lifetime idler, unless the other end manages to wear out. |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Apparently they have improved them. The last one I did still had elastomer in it. This getting old stuff sucks.
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| Author: | paly73 [ Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | 73 idler arm |
thank you people very much. i belive i am going to take nut off, hit bolt up. then fence the area off so i can safely torch the head of the bolt off.. will keep u posted, but not going to do this 4 a while,, think i will research some more & make sure this is absoulty nessary!! some play in it but now not sure if that maybe acceptable.. news to me but we will see ty paul |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Thu Jan 30, 2014 8:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The cheaper ones may still have bushings. This was a Moog "problem solver" series so it could have been a different design. Every front end I've taken apart had idlers that would flop around like no mans business. That's why I splurged for the firmfeel bearing type this time. |
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| Author: | paly73 [ Fri Jan 31, 2014 5:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | 73 idler |
thanks again i understand i have seen the moog at rockauto np paul |
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