Doing some on-line re-search I have found that evidently the Nov 1999 issue of car craft magazine did a slant performance build-up. I am contemplating getting some head work done while it is apart.

Id like to get it too breath more efficiently, even contemplated larger vales if that would help it get down the road a little easier. I have read that this issue had some info with pictures about porting and polishing the slant head.

I would like this information if possible, maybe someone here has it handy they would not mind e-mailing?

If anyone knows of any good articles with pictures ( I like how-toos ) and could provide me a link it would be appreciated as well.

I will check out the engine faq again to see if there is anything there that might help.

There is a lot there that will help.

Look at the "Band Sawed" links. Water is close in certain locations, so you don't want to go wild with your die grinder. If that doesn't put you off cutting metal away and enlarging the ports, keep reading.

As far as the ports are concerned, less is more in a most cases. If your going to street drive, enlarging the volume of the ports will reduce performance in many cases.
Stay away from the side walls. Generally, cleaning up flash, doing a bit of work around the valve stem, and improving the transition in the floor of the port will net the best results.

Polishing isn't the way to go IMHO. You can if you want, but the net gain will be nill if it doesn't cost performance at normal operating flows. Cleaning up the casting flash will provide more gain.

Large valves have their own issues. Many of us run Ford 300 valves. These require special consideration. First, they are so large, they will tend to mask on the cylinder wall for any but the largest over-bore sizes.

The enginebldr valves are very good. They run in the slant six size guides. Ford and Chevrolet valves require guide replacement as the stems are smaller. They may need to be trimmed and the retainer grooves re-cut, depending on how they are ordered.

Generally, if you aren't running at least a 0.060" over-bore, the large Ford and Chevy valves will offer limited improvement per dollar spent.

With any larger valves, it becomes critical that the combustion chambers be directly over the bores. This is a real problem, so verify and adjust with appropriate offset dowls prior to bolting things up. After, mock the engine up, and clay to verify valve to piston clearance. Modifications such as these will require extra vigilance.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ok than maybe just cleaning up the flash will be the way to go should I decide to tackle that at this point. Im going to see what the story is with the lifter/head removal before I give head work much thought. I am hoping a strong magnet will enable me to remove lifters without removing the head.

Just remember to put the lifters back in the same bores they come out of. The lifters and their associated cam lobes have worn in together and do not like being seperated.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Yeah, Ok thanks. Will do