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 Post subject: Torque Convertor
PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2014 6:50 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:07 pm
Posts: 311
Location: DALLAS, GA
Car Model:
This will take me awhile to setup. But I am planning to change the static compression from 8:15, to 10:3 by milling the block. And then getting the cam from the Oregon place, number 346 --- 234/228. And I have the Edelbrock 500cfm Thunder Series AVS, I am trying to make all the plans, and am wondering - do I have to change the torgue convertor? And if so, to what? It should be a stock one I have in there now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2014 11:53 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7447
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
That sounds like a good combination. 2000-2500 stall behind the slant. Across the counter, ~3000-3200ish stall behind a 318.. To hit it accurately, you need a high end converter outfit. Not Internetville/Ebag. Might have to send it back for recalibration. Depends on the torque characteristics.
I'm assuming you want to be able to launch the car at the track. 2500 is nice. For cruising 2000 is good.
What are the gears? Ready to recurve your distributor? It'll need it. Don't fiddle with the stock calibration of the AVS air door. Even wild builds can't use more than the base setting. You might consider saving a few bucks and installing an AFB. The AVS is trick and all, but I haven't seen much need for the spring control secondary on the slant six.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 4:58 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:07 pm
Posts: 311
Location: DALLAS, GA
Car Model:
I have 3.23 gears. But no plans to really launch the car. My style of driving is take off with medium fuel, and after it hits second, press the pedal down as much as I want. I don't like burning rubber. No race plans for this car. Yeah, I know about the dizzy recurve. But I don't know what the stock convertor is. I am assuming less then 2000 with your note. It is mostly a drive around town car.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 9:40 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
Car Model:
3.23's are a nice "around-town" ratio. I'd do the engine work & see how it drives. you're not pulling the engine out right now so there's no real loss to leaving things alone. Enough gear can make the stock stall converter driveable-depending on how wild yor combo is.

Once you have the engine dialed in, you can see if you need/ want a different stall. Plus you can evaluate your rpm's at cruising speed.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 12:09 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:07 pm
Posts: 311
Location: DALLAS, GA
Car Model:
Thanks. The engine is out now, as I pulled it to rebuild the engine. Didn't think the other car would eat up all the money I had planned for this car, so this car has a long waiting time, to get back on the road. Just trying to see what I need. I figured as long as I don't do any putting on the brakes, and rising the rpms (which I never do), I shouldn't have a problem. Just didn't know for sure. The car rarely goes on the freeway, and if so, I keep it at 55 mph, thanks to the higher rpms that 3.23 has for freeway. Any faster, I can almost watch the fuel gauge go down. Mostly I have two lane roads for most of my driving, and when the streets are not real busy. On occasion a non busy 4 lane road. But that is rare.


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