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problem when warm
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54572
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Author:  Boncky [ Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:37 am ]
Post subject:  problem when warm

Hello all I own a Plymouth volare 3.7 slant six 1976 I have a problem when it is warmed i I set "R" or "D" he go off, when he is on "P" or "N" he work but when i put gas pedal i hear falling out ignition, but when it is cold he work normally ... I replaced plugs and wires, and fuel pumps. Today when he was warmed about 30 minutes and go off i change inigiation timing after removing the screw for max... and it was better i I could go home but inigiation timing was over the scale !

please help i come from Poland, slant six here and parts is like Jurassic Park :)

Author:  Reed [ Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:59 am ]
Post subject: 

Hello and welcome. I would inspect the following:

(1) adjust the valves
(2) verify that the spark plug wires are connected in the correct sequence
(3) verify that the outer ring of the vibration damper has not slipped

Author:  Boncky [ Sun Feb 09, 2014 11:31 am ]
Post subject: 

Reed can you give me parameters of the valves?

Operating tappet clearance (Intake) .010 hot ?
Operating tappet clearance (Exhaust) .020 hot ?

OK i got

can someone tell me inigiation timing for my engine? 1bbl slant six 3.7 :> 76`- OK i got, wow here is everything.... nice Forum !

Author:  crater [ Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:23 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Reed can you give me parameters of the valves?

Operating tappet clearance (Intake) .010 hot ?
Operating tappet clearance (Exhaust) .020 hot ?

OK i got

can someone tell me inigiation timing for my engine? 1bbl slant six 3.7 :> 76`- OK i got, wow here is everything.... nice Forum !
Those values are correct for valve lash, you could also go .011 .021 or even .012 .022 if its not making too much extra clatter to improve performance a little bit.

Timing you can start at about 10 and go from there, likely advancing a little further if it runs okay in all situations (especially heavy load up hills, where it would be more likely to ping). This is assuming your timing mark is correct, if not then there no way to really know where you are.

Author:  Boncky [ Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:04 pm ]
Post subject: 

tomorrow i do valve and timing... we will see :)

Author:  Rick Covalt [ Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:12 pm ]
Post subject: 

Check the air gap in the distributor pick up too.

Author:  Boncky [ Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

I did:
- adjust valves; jep they require adjustment :)
- fix one vacuum hose

is better

but I found something else, unless it is called: Automatic Transmission Kickdown Linkage.
Please take a look at the video this element is not holding settings, how it should work? something is missing something is broken? Please help, welcome pictures :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUBR57BT ... e=youtu.be

Author:  WagonsRcool [ Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:19 am ]
Post subject: 

That part you were moving on the side of the carburetor is the "fast idle cam"- the steps or notches on it hold that idle screw (the one you were turning)when it is in use.

When the engine is cold the choke flap on the top of the carb should be closed, & a metal rod should move that cam so that the fast idle screw holds the throttle slightly open against the top step on the cam- so the engine idle speed is higher. As the engine heats up, the choke should slowly open- the cam moves some, & the idle screw should rest on the next step lower- idle speed should a little slower, & so forth, until the choke is fully open. Then the fast idle screw & cam do nothing- the throttle should be closed against the "base idle" screw.

Author:  Boncky [ Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:51 am ]
Post subject: 

ok thank you and I understand

which screw on the carburetor is the RPM control because it seems to me that is a little too low

Author:  Reed [ Fri Feb 14, 2014 11:08 am ]
Post subject: 

The idle RPM screw is on the side of the carburetor opposite of the side you were filming on. It is behind the fast idle cam.

You may also need to adjust your idle fuel mixture.

You have a Holley 1945 carburetor. You can download and view operation and repair manuals and videos for your carburetor here: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33102

Author:  Boncky [ Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thanks !
i did fuel mixture.
but I still have a problem with locating screws with RPM, whether it is a good procedure? :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QM0L9b4Q5s

description on the forum is not for me to end understandable, too many technical words :) might be able to somehow mark the RPM screw, or as it is called in the manual?

Author:  Reed [ Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

In the following photograph the screwdriver is resting against the idle speed screw on a Holley 1945 carburetor:

Image

To increase the speed you turn the screw in. To decrease the speed you turn the screw out.

Do not follow that video, it is too complicated. Just use a tachometer and set your curb idle to 700-750 RPM in park.

Author:  Boncky [ Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

ok thanks, tomorrow i will take care of.
About idle mixture - when i turn screw in i increase or decrease mixture ?

Author:  crater [ Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:21 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
ok thanks, tomorrow i will take care of.
About idle mixture - when i turn screw in i increase or decrease mixture ?
Turning clockwise, or in, will lean the mixture.

Author:  Reed [ Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Quote:
ok thanks, tomorrow i will take care of.
About idle mixture - when i turn screw in i increase or decrease mixture ?
Turning clockwise, or in, will lean the mixture.
This is correct. Think of it this way- the more you turn the screw in, the less fuel can flow through the hole the screw is blocking.

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