I wasn't sure which Weber thread to put this in and couldn't find the old stickied one, but I just wanted to share my new carb setup. This is on a 1968 Dodge Dart with a cable style throttle. I just thought I'd share in case someone else wanted to do this.
I was originally going to mount the supersix intake with the Carter BBD, but after rebuilding the Carter and looking at it... it was still 1,000 years old looking, and I didn't know how it would run, and I didn't want to dish out $100 or more on a kickdown rod which I didn't have... so I bought a Weber 38/38. I also bought a kickdown cable - which I never wound up using.
The kit was brand new,
K-551-38 Electric choke.
intended for a Jeep with a 254 (? or whatever the inline6 is), and it cost $330 through Amazon. I figured the tuning would be at least close enough to run on the 225. It came with both plates, one to mount to the intake, and one for the carb to mount to that, and a kickdown lever already on it to operate a vertical kickdown rod. I had to toss the longer rod out of the mix, since it was way too long and needed a bend to it.
I took the kickdown rod off the throttle cam side, and moved it closer to the exhaust side of the motor by one hole. Then I attached the PCV valve to the top most mounting plate, and used a supplied button bolt to plug the overflow port.
Here's the cool thing about this setup, I was able to REUSE THE STOCK 1bbl KICKDOWN, which had me scratching my head with the Carter setup. I also reused the stock return spring arm, but bent it down some, so the spring pulled out, and downward. The fuel line is also in a spot where you can easily run 8" of hose right back to where the filter is, and just ditch the little solid line that used to be attached to the Holley.
To get the throttle re-attached, I took the stock rod that was there, detached the holding ring, and opened up the rod end 1/32" or so so it would go over the kickdown arm and took the bolt with ball socket on it, undid the bolt, slipped the bolt back through the arm AND rod end, and bolted it back on. Perfect fit. For the attachment to the kickdown lever, i took a rod out of a old seat back, and bent it to fit for now, to see which bend is ideal. I made a 22.5* bend-ish in it, and put a hook on the bottom end so it could move slightly without binding. I left the end to see if a different bend would work - once I have what I want there, I'll make a more robust rod to operate the kickdown lever on the exhaust manifold.
The electric choke is just attached to +12v IGN.
SO far kickdown operates normally, and the shifts are not rough, and the gear kicks down when you mash the gas. I'd say it works. Only thing I'm having an issue with is the gas pedal not returning all the way. It still needs to set back about 1/8" for the cam to rest back on the idle screw again without it revving high at idle after you push the gas. Little things.
So far it runs just fine - idles quietly, and gets up and moves. It's a lot louder than the open element Holley 1920 I had on here, so be prepared for that. It definitely sounds more like an old German car or something. Hard to describe the sound so hopefully you know what I mean. There's an improvement over the stock power for sure, and it is noticable, but that's about it. Just thought to share.
