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| Anyone here using QA1 Upper Control Arms? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54647 |
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| Author: | Danarchy [ Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | Anyone here using QA1 Upper Control Arms? |
Not being a Huge Fan of Poly Bushings this is an odd question. I have looked at Firm Feel and Reilly Motorsport UCA's, but the design of the QA1 look to be Better.(Heavier and have a plate for the bumper) Anyone with experience with these? I realize this is total Over-Kill for my car, but I need to replace my upper control arms.
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon Feb 17, 2014 7:49 pm ] |
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Now that is a proper tubular control arm with good gusseting, and bump stop baring area compared to a set I got from CAP in '08. The problem I have had with my UCA is the dust boot won't seal, and I have to grease them monthly every 1000 miles or less. |
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| Author: | Danarchy [ Tue Feb 18, 2014 6:45 am ] |
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Quote: grease them monthly every 1000 miles or less.
I know QA1 bought out CAP, and CAP had some quality control problems in the past, but that is why I asked if anyone had used these "Newer" design. I don't want to be greasing the UCA's all the time. I found a set of UCA's off a 1975 Dart at a salvage yard, paid too much for them, and the threads were trashed on both of them! Thats why I am looking at New Arms.02/18/2014 8:50pm Well, I bit the bullet and bought a pair. I'll post pics when they get here, will be awhile before I get to install them. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Wed Feb 19, 2014 6:31 am ] |
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Yeas ago /6dan posted a photo of a CAP UCA the had failed, and advised not to use them, well they were all ready paid for & installed, too late for a better choice. Actually in '08 there were few choices in after market tuber UCA for A Body Mopars and most looked to be under built. Today there are a lot more manufactures producing these parts built to much higher standards. Back to failed CAP arms, I occurred to me last summer the these arms were probably failing from lack of lubrication where the ball joint becomes one with its socket so to speak, causing excessive twisting forces at the joint collar to arm welds. These welds are small, with no gusseting to spread forces out over a larger area in effect reducing torque, or moment for you engineer types, applied total length of weld. Now you have me lusting over these QA1 arms, at a price very close to what I paid for the CAP parts in '08... More frustrating is one can find high quality tubular arms for Ford & GM for a lot lower cost of any Mopar tubular UCA. |
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| Author: | Danarchy [ Wed Feb 19, 2014 9:45 am ] |
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$296.97 @ Summit racing with Free Shipping, and I had a $100 Gift Card from Christmas that has been burning a hole in my pocket! again, I realize that these are Total Overkill for my application (Daily Driver), but with Disc conversion and Frontend rebuild all at once, these should make things easier.(No removing and replacing Upper Ball Joints or UCA bushings) Thanks for the replies Wjajr! |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:40 pm ] |
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When they arrive do me a favor, weigh your 75 UCA, and your Q1A UCA, and see what the difference is. I want to know because I probably will rebuild the front of the drag car, and if its enough, will get the Q1A, and put my parts on my wifes 64. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 5:31 am ] |
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Just a quick look is enough to see that the dust boot will seal much better than the old CAP crap I have. |
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| Author: | Danarchy [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:04 am ] |
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yes, the dust boot isn't going anywhere! It feels like it has a metal ring around the base.(I am not going to try and take it off). A few more brake parts, new wheels & tires, and I am ready for the swap. |
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