I can't remember if it is my van or the 1 ton I scrapped out that had an offset rear. I think it was the Dana 60 in the 1 ton. Long drive shaft on the Maxivans. No problems.
| Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| centering a slant 6 https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54648 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | martin53 [ Mon Feb 17, 2014 11:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | centering a slant 6 |
I am building a 1953 dodge pickup with a dodge Dakota frame and a 225 slant 6 and had a few questions to ask. Does the crank have to be right in the center of the frame or can it be to the right an inch. Does anyone know where I can get a power steering mount for a slant 6 and should I use the Dakota power steering pump or the find a slant pump. Trying to use what I have laying around. Thank everyone |
|
| Author: | olafla [ Wed Feb 19, 2014 2:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Unless he see this thread and answer you here, I suggest you get in contact with our member Dart270. He is known for his Slankota, a SL6 powered Dakota! Olaf |
|
| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
My son owns the Slantkota now. You can PM him if you like. His name is Ryandcovalt on here. Rick |
|
| Author: | Dart270 [ Wed Feb 19, 2014 6:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would say right an inch is fine as long as the crank or tranny output shaft is parallel to the rear axle pinion gear/shaft. I would use a Slant PS pump/mounts, although pressure may not be correct for Dak PS rack or whatever you are using. Should be fairly close. Lou |
|
| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I can't remember if it is my van or the 1 ton I scrapped out that had an offset rear. I think it was the Dana 60 in the 1 ton. Long drive shaft on the Maxivans. No problems.
|
|
| Author: | martin53 [ Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I got my motor and tranny mounted the drive shaft isnt straight back because of the offset rear end could I still drive it like that. I'm having to fabricate a bunch of stuff for the clutch then start on the wiring what all do I need for wiring or should I rip a harness from another slant 6 at the junk yard. |
|
| Author: | mpgFanatic [ Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | bingo! |
Quote: I would say right an inch is fine as long as the crank or tranny output shaft is parallel to the rear axle pinion gear/shaft.
Because if those two shafts are not parallel in both horizontal and vertical directions, you'll get an interesting and highly annoying driveshaft shudder vibration. Don't ask how I know.  - Erik |
|
| Author: | Dart270 [ Sat Mar 08, 2014 7:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The driveshaft does not have to be straight back, or parallel to anything (body, crank...). The point is the crankshaft (and tranny input) and the pinion shaft should be parallel, but not necessarily in a line. Lou |
|
| Author: | mpgFanatic [ Sat Mar 08, 2014 9:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: The driveshaft does not have to be straight back, or parallel to anything (body, crank...). The point is the crankshaft (and tranny input) and the pinion shaft should be parallel, but not necessarily in a line.
Yes, precisely-- sorry if I wasn't clear. Driveshaft angles can be a couple of degrees without any problem. Off-roaders tend to go a lot more than that, if the body is lifted.Lou In fact, according to a Dana/Spicer manual I read, the U-Joints should have some slight angle, not zero, in order to keep them moving and lubricated. From an engineering design perspective, it helps to think of a drivetrain as three distinct pieces (assuming a single-piece driveshaft)-- you've got the engine -> driveshaft -> pinion shaft. The first and third pieces must be parallel to each other. That fact is never mentioned in any of the numerous auto repair manuals, because it is assumed that the manufacturer built it that way in the first place. But when you're customizing a new engine placement into a hot rod, you learn about all sorts of assumptions. It doesn't take much lateral shift-- front motor mounts 1/4" too far right, tranny tail mount 1/4" too far left-- to cause the engine to be not parallel to the rear axle pinion, and the whole car to feel like it's dancing the hokey-pokey. When those first and third pieces don't line up parallel to each other (regardless of the angle of the middle piece), the rotational velocity of the shaft is always changing during the course of every revolution. I still can't understand why the driveshaft shudder is most pronounced between 2-10 mph, and then quiets down dramatically between 10-40 mph until of course it becomes obvious again at highway speeds. But that pattern is well-documented online, and it was what caused me to actually measure the engine position in order to discover the problem. Didn't want anyone else to have to learn it the hard way. - Erik |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|