I am finally getting to an oil change / plug tube gasket/ valve cover gasket tonight. . . .at least that is the plan. 225 Slant six (1969) There are some signs of that milky sludge under oil fill cap and breather. I have been told that seafoam can be helpful with cleaning. Does anyone have feedback on this product.

_________________
FL

i can say all the mechanics around here i've asked about the product swear by it. i ;ve used it but since i ve never really got into the engine i couldn't say what it does. they have told me to pour quite a bit in carb and l it sit overight, it will smoke like crazy!!!! seems to help carb, have pured in crankcase, it will smole out exhaust like its a bad engine till i changed to fresh oil.
i've had motors with lots of "gunk" and have been in discussions on what to do to clean up such, but lots of advice and notions!!!!!!

_________________
my email is billbarbee222@yahoo.com and ph is 417-350-5951 evenings before 8 p.m. central time please

Seafoam is a product to put into the gas tank to remove water from the fuel tank and carb bowl and the carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber and valves. You can also pour it down the throat of the carb while running.

For the problem you described there are at least five things that can help.
1. a good quality PCV like a SMP V180.
2. a long drive to really warm up the engine so the PCV will pull out the water
3. a 195 degree thermostat to get the engine up to temp quickly, especially on short trips
4. a oil change
5. replace the PCV lines and make sure the carb base is not plugged.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I agree with everything Ted said. A milky sludge in the oil is a sign of moisture in the oil. This is most often found in an engine that is driven only on short trips and does not get hot enough to fully burn out all the water that gets trapped in the oil. Moisture naturally condenses inside the crankcase of the engine. If the engine never gets runs long enough to essentially boil out all the water suspended in the oil then the oil turns milky looking.

Do everything Ted said and your problem should go away. Heck, just taking the motor out for a long highway drive should clear up the oil and sludge. This is not a situation where Seafoam would help.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thank you for your help. I was kind of curious as to how this would help but always worth asking. Funny you bring up PCV . . . I just picked one up about an hour ago. I did not specify brand . Just got whatever napa had. I replaced the water pump two weeks ago along with the thermostat. Again, did not specify for a high temp one but . . .We will be taking this car on a longer drive this weekend so hopefully all goes well. I am sure it will.

On an earlier post I had mentioned that my carb has 2 fuel lines going to it. There was mention that it sounds like it had been converted for a good cause. . . do you know if this second line needs a filter? Just curious.

_________________
FL

Two fuel lines? I think a picture is needed here.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

There is only one inlet that goes to the needle and seat if it is stock.

If you had a newer engine and carb you would see a vent line going to the top of the carb. Otherwise you should only have one inlet, a PCV line, a small hose for the distributor hose and maybe a choke pull off.

As for the PCV I like the noiseless SMP brand VC180. It has a metal base. The little cheap plastic ones always end up chattering a lot.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG