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| Alternate radiator drain system. https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54693 |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 5:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | Alternate radiator drain system. |
The stock drain plug on Mopar radiators ( and maybe all as far as I know) is awkward, and does not even work very well. I was wondering if there was anything wrong with using a ball valve in place of whatever they call the thing that is stock. On my stock piece it leaks unless I crank down on it with pliers, and then I cannot get it open without pliers, given my aging finger. Given all the crap I have fastened to the underside of the front end, it will be hard to get to even when I do design an access hatch for that purpose. It also always annoys me that when you do drain the radiator it sprays coolant all over the K frame. I sand blasted and painted the K frame when I restored the car, and the antifreeze eventually loosened the paint and it has peeled off there. I was thinking about putting some sort of flexible hose on the end of the valve that bends down to direct the coolant into a pan below the car. In my thinking I imagine it must not go below the level of the K member or it will get bashed by bumps in the road or driveway, and maybe do damage to the radiator or drain. I imagine if I look I can find a smallish preformed radiator hose (maybe a by pass hose) of the right diameter that bends downward. As a corollary to this, is the thread on the drain plug just a 1/8" NPT? Thanks for your thoughts. I want to work this out before putting the lower splash pan and air dam back on the car. Sam |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 5:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sam, a small brass ball valve that has a 1/4 turn to open would be nice. Then you could run a piece of tubing from it to wherever you want. Not sure of the thread size. Rick |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 5:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I feel your pain, radiator draining is messy work at best. I would be hesitant to attach any valve to lower radiator tank with any mass as I suspect vibrations would cause the valve to stress surrounding tank metal and eventually crack it. Brass, and or aluminum don't stand up to that sort of environment as well as other materials. I have found the radiator drain cock is the first spot for crud to collect and cause a restriction. I suspect that a drain tube could be found that would snuggly fit over discharge tube to direct coolant away from K member. I just stick some tin-foil or flashing down between drain and k member when draining it down. |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 5:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Here is a small Swagelok valve. They are expensive but I'm sure you can find another brand. This one has tube ends but they can be had with male NPT. If you 90 it down and then put the valve it should not stress the radiator much. Edit: I deleted the ebay link. It was to long and I don't know how to shorten them. It you do a search you will find one that will work for sure. Swagelok is like the Snap-on of valves and fittings.. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Sun Feb 23, 2014 2:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Great ideas. Thanks. I will stop by our local plumbing supply store here soon. We have one that has much more than the standard hardware store, or home depot. Sam |
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