I got the new push rods and dropped them in the holes(The three that were bent)...but they sink way too far in. I put my finger on the top and they are going up and down, Is that what they call a collapsed lifter? They are the same length as the originals. Any suggestions? ~Thanks

Are the valves for those pushrods closing all the way??
DD

yes, the springs seem to be all the way up....

So, how far in is "sunk way too far in"?? An inch, 1/8th inch??

Look down the pushrod holes with a flashlight to make sure you got the pushrod end into the lifter, there are some oil drainback hole right next to the lifters and it is possible to "make a wrong turn" and go down one of these.
DD

we pulled the head today, and found that the reason the rods were going in to far was that the lifters had popped out of their holes, one of the bent rods had the end(probaly about 3/4")broken off, it fell down a cam hole, do you think it will hurt anything, or will it just fall through to the oil pan?
thanks!

The broken push rod end *should* fall through into the sump. If it gets to the sump you will be OK. At this point, I would not worry about it.
DD

Thanks for all of the help...we will probably need more!

Hey, We are up and running! No problems from the pushrod end mentioned in previous post. There is quite a bit of oil and smoke coming out of the exhaust...but I'm hoping that it is just the carb cleaner(that we used on the valve springs), and some coolant that spilled into the oil when we pulled the head that thinned it down...we will do an oil and filter change tomorrow.

We set the valves by feel to get it running(as are waiting for a manual we ordered for the car)...could someone please give a quick lesson on adjusting the valves so we can put the valve cover back on and head out for a cruise? Thanks!

Here is a valve adjust message I pull out of the archieves:

...Now that we can tell the "Solids" (adjustable rockers)from the Hydraulics (no adjusting screw) and seeing most SL6 engines are the "adjustable" type (solid lifters) how should you adjust the valves?? Here are some tips:

The engine must be hot.

Once valve cover is off, I check the torque on the head bolts, if they don't move by 80 ft.lbs, go to the next, follow the "center-outward" sequence. Also check to see if all the rocker arms are oiling. Oil needs to flow out the center and tip holes. If not, now is the time to change them.

I do my adjustment with the engine running, so turn the idle down as low as possible and put some cardboard under the car. (if you want your floor to stay clean!)

I start with the intakes, stock cams adjust at .010, watch for the TWO INTAKES side by side in the center of the row (Cylinders 3&4) use the manifolds to guide you.

Come back around for the exhaust valves, they should be plenty hot by now,(remember, the engine is running and you are "feeling" the clearance between the "hits", if unsure, stop the engine for a moment and recheck to help establish your "feel"

The exhaust lash is set at .020 but shoot for looser to start. (.021 - .022) Find a setting where the idle is smooth but the lifters are mostly quite, yes "mostly" quite, they should make a small bit of ticking noise when correct. When you have things set right, each cylinder should "miss" slightly when you insert the "feeler gauge", this "hangs" the valve open, causing the minor miss.

If you want, try to "sneek-into" a minor bit of performance increase, try setting the intake valves a bit tighter, .008 instead of the .010
If the engine starts running rough at idle, Go Back To .010, if the idle stays smooth,....how about @ .007? This puts a small bit more duration on the intake valve event, this also works in "consept" with the exhaust lash but there is way more "risk" of a "choppy idle" and burned exhaust valves, so .020, may-be .019 (HOT) is about as tight as I would go. Bottomline, these lash settings have some "leeway", a little tighter or looser is OK, as long as a smooth idle is maintained.
DD