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| Dirty Rockers https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54940 |
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| Author: | 73dust225 [ Sun Mar 23, 2014 12:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Dirty Rockers |
When I finally got around to adjusting my valves the rocker arms were lightly caked with sludge (lack of a better word) and I would like to clean them better than just wiping them off. Question is can I unbolt, clean and bolt back on the rockers and shaft without any problems or should I use some type of cleaner that goes into the oil. Engine only has about 70k on it. |
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| Author: | RyGuyTooDry [ Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can unbolt them, just leave the pushrods in the head. |
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| Author: | 73dust225 [ Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: You can unbolt them, just leave the pushrods in the head.
I thought I could I just don't need any unforseen problems.
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just remember to use the torque sequence when bolting them back on, and do a valve adjustment after. I'd do one cold with a smidge extra clearance to rough it in before attempting to start the motor again. |
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| Author: | wvenable [ Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If they are caked on the outside - the rocker shaft is prolly caked on the inside. Luckily I know a guy that had the plugs and a long wire brush (like cleaning a shotgun) to clean the inside of the shaft. Just a thought. |
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| Author: | 73dust225 [ Sun Mar 23, 2014 3:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the advice. I'm on vacation in May and have plans on things to do to the Duster and this just got added. |
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| Author: | WagonsRcool [ Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Be careful cleaning your rockers. Sludge on the outside is mostly "cosmetic". The oiling passages in them aren't neccessarily a "straight shot" thru- there are some bends & places you can't really reach. If you knock some gunk loose & jam it in, you might end up with no oil flow to a valve stem tip or push rod. I'd look for some really nasty solvent (I think that you have to jump thru some hoops to get the "good" Chem-Dip, & maybe several cans of carb cleaner- just use something that'll actually dissolve varnish & sludge) I'd also want an air compressor/tank with a rubber tip blow gun. You might consider lining up replacement rockers- if needed, or new adjuster screws. Better to have some extras than not enough |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Wed Mar 26, 2014 9:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
When I have resurrected old motors like that, you can scrub them down on the engine with a paint bush and some solvent based cleaner. Just change the oil when your done......If they are hard caked then pull them off and soak them. Hopefully your PCV is working well so the oil vapors do not bake to death up there.....! On an old gunked up motor that is why I flush with Rislone over many oil changes and run synthetic. No more nasty build up! On an old dog motor you can actually get them to clean up over the miles. It can vary....depending on how bad yours is...I would definitely change the oil more often and run better oil. In the old days 30W Penzoil and Quaker State would break down and plug up a motor in no time.....we used to joke about it when I worked in the wrecking yard. You could actually see paraffin based stalactites in an engine. I hope those non synthetic brands have better longevity and have improved over the years. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Wed Mar 26, 2014 10:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I find that simple solvent cleaning of the rockerarm's outer surfaces, along with shift ID cleaning works best. Get a can of spray carb cleaner and use that to squirt thru the arm's small oil passages, to make sure they are all clear. For some reason, soaking the arms for long periods, in aggresive cleaners, seems to clog the small passages so having some extras is good advice. DD |
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