Planning on changing both rod and main bearings with the motor still in the car. I've taken off the oil pan a couple times already, so that part i can do. I figure i'll remove the spark plugs and the rod bearings should be easy. As for the mains, bottoms are no problem, i was planning on using a special pick i made go through the oil hole into the top bearing, and turning the motor over by hand until the bearing comes down.

does anyone have any suggestions or tips to add?

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

Can you take some pictures when you do it? I'd like to see how that tool works.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Clean-clean-clean. You want lots of brake clean & air to flush any dirt out. You do NOT want to trap a bit of grit under the backside of a bearing. I put the upper main in dry- put assembly lube on the lower & run the cap finger tight- rotate the crank once to distribute lube & torque bolts. Make sure the corner of the main bearing bore doesn't nick the backside of the bearing when "feeding" it in.

It's easier to do mains if you back off all the main caps, but I only do it that way if I'm going to replace the crank oil seals as well.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

I am sure with some one with more experience will chime in here, but the upper shell of the main won't really just slide out, even With the pick.. they are compressed into the bearing saddle

again, just my thoughts as i try to do this job in my head. but I don't see that it would work for the mains.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I always applaud hard work and intuition,, but why change the bearings and not account for proper clearances?

It seems more likely to be a successful enterprise if you beg or borrow an engine hoist and rollover and do the job normally.
Use a micrometer on the crank, remove the crank,,,get the journals polished or cut, have proper access for torqueing the bolts, proper cleanliness,,
not saying you can't do what you are describing,, I just question why? There will be many opportunities for errors and incomplete fixes.

I can't even understand doing the oilpan with motor in the car. Did that twice - never again. Easier to pull motor and get it right. Much easier to rent/borrow a cherry picker - saves time and a @!#$up job.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I used to do that kind of stuff "in the car"- years ago. Not no more. I've gotten better at pulling engines- it's counter intuitive but is IS easier to do so.
The "pick" is a carefully reshaped cotter pin, most of which fits into the crank oil passage. The ends of the pin are bent to lay perfectly flat (lengthwise) on the crank journal. So when you turn the crankshaft, the pin pushes against the un-notched end of the bearing shell, yet will not catch on the block- it stays in place on the crank as you spin it 180*. It lets you rotate the shell completely out, then do it the opposite way to push a new shell in.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Eons ago I had purchased a set of comercially made set of pins (1 large, 1 smaller), they looked like large diameter short nails with heads mounted on an angle (heads were rectangular in shape).
The shank portion went into the oil hole and the head portion was used to roll the bearing shell out as the crank was turned.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I have a set of those, also. I did a search for them, and called several "oldtime" parts people I know, to see if anyone had a part number, I could post in his thread. I did find a tool that was similar but sold for about $80, but not the $5 ones like I have.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I had a set of those too. And they worked fine but I would never try it in a car. I changed the bearings in a Ford truck or Bronco where there was lots of room. Truth is most slant 6 engines can be out on a stand in an hour or 2 and then the job is much much easier.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Unless it is a model with A/C and all the creature comforts. But still easier than fighting with it in car.

I actually had the motor out of the red car in 30 minutes a few times.

Probably because I had the motor out of the red car 100 times.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Only "100 times"...
DD

Did it a couple of times. After the first time, I swore I would never do it again.
The second time, I was reminded why.

Motor oil tastes terrible. I know you don't intend to put it in your mouth and eyes, but it will end up there.
Doing it right is much more difficult in the chassis. With a K-Frame, I doubt I could see what I was doing.

Did a 410 Merc, and a Suzuki G-10. I could get to the pan directly on both. It still sucked, and the FE didn't seal up right. Had to pull the engine anyway. The G-10 was exploratory, so ended up getting pulled to repair a damaged crankshaft. Both miserable jobs.

I recommend; pull the engine.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I probably should of mentioned that I work at a shop and have access to a lift, air tools and a screw jack. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for all the advice.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr