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Hi from san antonio tx https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55393 |
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Author: | drillerjoe [ Mon May 19, 2014 9:07 pm ] |
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Author: | drillerjoe [ Wed May 21, 2014 12:46 pm ] |
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hello...hello......hello............hello lol |
Author: | Danarchy [ Wed May 21, 2014 12:57 pm ] |
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Great car! Nice color! Welcome to the Forum! |
Author: | slantvaliant [ Wed May 21, 2014 2:52 pm ] |
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Nice looking Dart! For parts, try NAPA and ROCK AUTO. I think either will have the choke setup. My '64 doesn't have the same do-dads that yours does under the hood, but someone will be along to help ID them. For maintenance and upgrades, first cruise through the ARTICLES, then do some searches here in the forum. Your car already has some good stuff on it (such as electronic ignition) so the main thing is to get them working correctly. A two-barrel swap might be in order, or EFI if you need a project ... ![]() |
Author: | Danarchy [ Thu May 22, 2014 10:17 am ] |
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![]() Quote: I am looking to find out what this red plug may be?
Brake Warning Switch or Windshield Washer Motor??? I don't have any late manuals or wiring diagrams, just guessing from placement and length of wires.
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Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu May 22, 2014 4:38 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Hi from san antonio tx |
That looks like a really sharp, well-kept survivor. Quote: just rebuilt the carter carb
Original carb would have been a Holley 1945. What kind of Carter did you find?Quote: running regular maintenance on all fluids and filters. anything in particular to look out for stay away from or look into
Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Valve adjustment. Ignition upgrade in the HEI upgrade thread. Improved hot starts by doing the Fuel line mod. Check for timing chain slop. Check to make sure the manifold heat control valve and thermostatic air cleaner system are working correctly.Quote: any decent MPG and Power mods that can be done without tearing down the engine?
Lots -- depending on how much time, effort, and money you want to spend. The better ignition, 2bbl carburetor swap, Dutra Duals...Quote: I am looking to find out what this red plug may be?
It's a connector for the manual-override switch for the seat belt/starterinterlock system that doesn't exist on your car. It was mandated for 1974 cars and un-mandated before the end of the '74 model year, but after '75 wiring harnesses had already been engineered, specified, put out for bid, quoted, accepted, contracted, and ordered. Don't worry about it.Quote: also, what my options are for the addition of power brakes?
Not difficult. Send me a PM if you like; I have the correct power brake booster for your car, then you'd just need a short list of other bits and parts.Quote: What is this thing???
EGR vacuum amplifier. See here and here. And since you're going through and cleaning up/fixing stuff under the hood, might as well also see here and here. Quote: where can i get a replacement remote mount choke actuator? or can I?
You certainly can (I may have a new one of those on the shelf, too; if not they're still not hard to come by on the parts market), but you'd be considerably happier with one of the Electric choke kits instead. Key advantage: adjustability!Quote: What color should the inserts in the grill be?
Can't tell which part you are calling the "inserts". Please specify.Quote: the rear trim under the trunk where it says DODGE is there a replacement vinyl available for this piece?
No, that's a "go fish" item. Perhaps you'll score a good used one from a place where body sheetmetal dissolves in the road salt, but plastic pieces hold up because the sun doesn't bake them to death.Also, if you don't have the books in this thread you'll probably want to get 'em. |
Author: | phogroian [ Fri May 23, 2014 8:09 am ] |
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Dan's the man! DrillerJoe, welcome to the forum! |
Author: | Louise76 [ Fri May 23, 2014 10:42 am ] |
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If you are talking "plastic inserts" as the gap-fillers between the bumpers and the sheet metal. those were bare gray plastic. They can be a bugger to remove, as the phillips-head screws get really badly corroded in place. Clean the plastic with heavy soap & water, rinse well. Then I've found that a quick wipe-off with lacquer thinner takes off the deteriorated surface plastic and leaves it looking fresh. OR- just paint it gray eggshell/semi-flat . Basic for gas mileage: change the air filter very often, fresh spark plugs & distributor cap & rotor & wires. If you are thinking of replacing the muffler & tailpipe soon, you might also install a new clean catalytic converter to help with fuel economy. Watch for electrical problems- usually traceable to corroded connections on the back of the ammeter, and a fairly easy clean-up. BTW- your Dart is almost identical to our "Louise" . Pat ![]() |
Author: | drillerjoe [ Wed May 28, 2014 9:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | Dan you are the man! |
Hey Dan thanks for the phone call the other day and for taking the time to let me know my email was not working. I finally got it resolved by switching it from godaddy to WIX they are also hosting my website now. thanks all for the welcome and complements on the Dart we are really happy with it. It does get about 18MPG but I would like to see about 20 out of it. the brakes are much better now that I have had them completely gone through.I am still considering the booster though so if I go that route I will certainly give you a call Dan. We did find the car leaks water like crazy in the rain but it appears to be coming from the windshield.... ![]() oh and I am looking desperately for the DART CUSTOM emblem for the drivers side fender. it is the only thing that is currently missing from the car aside from the liner for the trunk. thanks again for the help and welcome. any of you folks local to san antonio? Pat I am not sure if Danielle has named the car yet, i am sure she will. her last car was "Betty" lol |
Author: | Tim Keith [ Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:38 pm ] |
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I'm in the Bulverde area. That's a clean looking Dart. This Valiant looks good too. http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/4446455040.html |
Author: | WagonsRcool [ Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:55 pm ] |
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Hello & welcome to the forum. Quote: We did find the car leaks water like crazy in the rain but it appears to be coming from the windshield.... Sad so I guess that is next on the list.
First I'd look at & repair the windshield wiper pivots. They almost always wear/corrode & leak, The original "seal" is a bit of foam rubber that's failed by now. If you google "Mopar A body wiper seal" you'll any number of kits that have new pivot seals & mounting gaskets, as well as grease fittings for the pivots. Regular greasing helps lube & "seal" the pivot body.If your pivots are loose & "wobbly" (worn pivot bushings) then you might have to look for replacements. 18 mpg is typical for mixed driving in a slant six-automatic A-body. One thing working against better mileage on your 75 is the "impact" bumpers. The bumper with its "shock absorber" mounts weighs about 95 lbs- each. So 180 lbs is a fair bit more than the approx 40-50 lbs for the 72 & down. |
Author: | Louise76 [ Tue Jun 10, 2014 10:18 pm ] |
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Right on about the windshield wiper pivots. Take that from those of us living around Oreegon's and Wash. State's "temperate RAIN forests ! If you take the windshield out to re-seal it, plan on a LOT of rust clean-up on the frame and many coats of paint before re-installing, as the lower edges are notoriously bad for rust-through. Also- the "grill" in front of the windshield is a plenum for incoming heater-air conditioning air. Tree leaves etc. can get into this area and plug the drainage scuppers on each end of that "cowl" area. The drain scuppers are visible with the hood open- they are along the cowl-to-firewall flange inboard of the hood hinges left & right. If the drains are plugged, the rain water puddles in there and then leaks through into the cabin. How to clean out that area? If no air conditioning go up through the left & right air vent doors, or take down the heater assembly and left air box. Try building a twisty hose end for your vacuum? With air conditioning- I dunno an easy way. Good luck. ![]() |
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