Slant Six Forum :: Assembly probs...

Not to sound insulting, but there is a lot running through my mind on this one. I guess it is the "high school shop teacher" in me. If you did not know the pistons go in through the top, do you know that:

You need to check ring gaps?

The rings gaps are to be turned 1/3 - 1/2 turn from each other?

Did you mic or plastigauge the bearings/journals to make sure it fits right?

Did you thouroughly clean and then wipe the cylinder down with oil? Personally, I dip the piston assys in oil when I install them as well.

Did you know that the pistons/rods must be pointed "the right way" (assuming /6 are the same as every other engine in this respect)?

My apologies if I sound like a tool, but I made all these mistakes on my first engine.....along time ago in a galaxy far far away.

Quote:

Not taken offensively at all, I can see how my first post made me sound...

Yes, this is my first rebuild. However, I have studied and read all I could find on the matter, and tried to make sure I was doing it right. As to all of your inquiries, yes, all of those I have done.

I posted this somewhat out of despair, it was a hard day and I was exhausted and dumbfounded. The piston and rod wouldn't fit from the top, from what I automatically assume it was due to the slants small bore. I then figured they might go through the bottom, and as stated, it wasn't working...

So I called it a night.

Upon returning today to contemplate some more, I found the rod cap was still on. Take rod cap off = slides right down the bore.

Somehow last night I missed that small detail, thus the cause of the whole problem...

Sorry for the ignorant post!

Thanks all though!

And Doug, not making stupid mistakes is what I'm tryin to avoid!

Author:	dartsport76 [ Mon May 19, 2014 9:46 pm ]
Post subject:	Assembly probs...
So, I went to install the rotating assembly in the block today, and found I can't get the ring compressor to sit level with the bores due to the mains overhanging! If I had a ring compressor 3 or so inches tall it might work... I'm really tempted to try an oil filter wrench, but I figured it would be wiser to ask some gurus (that's all of you guys). Whaddya say? How did you all do? Is there some trick I should use, or am I just flat stupid?

Author:	SlantSteve [ Mon May 19, 2014 9:57 pm ]
Post subject:
If I read right you are trying to fit the pistons from the bottom??The piston and ring assemblies go in from the top,the mains won't bother you doing it this way. I hope that answers your question.

Author:	emsvitil [ Mon May 19, 2014 10:03 pm ]
Post subject:
X2

Author:	Fopar [ Mon May 19, 2014 10:40 pm ]
Post subject:
And if you are using a wrap around tighten the compressor with a windup type, look for the small bends on the edge (those go toward the block to keep the compressor from going into the bore with piston). Richard

Author:	GTS225 [ Tue May 20, 2014 3:48 am ]
Post subject:
and slip some gas line hose over the rod cap studs as you slide the rod/piston assembly in, so that you don't nick your crank. Roger

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Assembly probs... https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55394	Page 1 of 1

Author:	slantzilla [ Tue May 20, 2014 5:00 am ]
Post subject:
May be a real good idea to get an engine manual right now.

Author:	Mr Zeal [ Tue May 20, 2014 6:56 am ]
Post subject:
Not to sound insulting, but there is a lot running through my mind on this one. I guess it is the "high school shop teacher" in me. If you did not know the pistons go in through the top, do you know that: You need to check ring gaps? The rings gaps are to be turned 1/3 - 1/2 turn from each other? Did you mic or plastigauge the bearings/journals to make sure it fits right? Did you thouroughly clean and then wipe the cylinder down with oil? Personally, I dip the piston assys in oil when I install them as well. Did you know that the pistons/rods must be pointed "the right way" (assuming /6 are the same as every other engine in this respect)? My apologies if I sound like a tool, but I made all these mistakes on my first engine.....along time ago in a galaxy far far away.

Author:	Greg Ondayko [ Tue May 20, 2014 7:27 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Not to sound insulting, but there is a lot running through my mind on this one. I guess it is the "high school shop teacher" in me. If you did not know the pistons go in through the top, do you know that: You need to check ring gaps? The rings gaps are to be turned 1/3 - 1/2 turn from each other? Did you mic or plastigauge the bearings/journals to make sure it fits right? Did you thouroughly clean and then wipe the cylinder down with oil? Personally, I dip the piston assys in oil when I install them as well. Did you know that the pistons/rods must be pointed "the right way" (assuming /6 are the same as every other engine in this respect)? My apologies if I sound like a tool, but I made all these mistakes on my first engine.....along time ago in a galaxy far far away. Yes.. All good points! Better to do it correct the first time then have to spend time and CA$H to Tear it down and do again. Although sometimes the best learning experiences that we can get is to learn from our mistakes.

Author:	dartsport76 [ Tue May 20, 2014 4:08 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Not to sound insulting, but there is a lot running through my mind on this one. I guess it is the "high school shop teacher" in me. If you did not know the pistons go in through the top, do you know that: You need to check ring gaps? The rings gaps are to be turned 1/3 - 1/2 turn from each other? Did you mic or plastigauge the bearings/journals to make sure it fits right? Did you thouroughly clean and then wipe the cylinder down with oil? Personally, I dip the piston assys in oil when I install them as well. Did you know that the pistons/rods must be pointed "the right way" (assuming /6 are the same as every other engine in this respect)? My apologies if I sound like a tool, but I made all these mistakes on my first engine.....along time ago in a galaxy far far away. Not taken offensively at all, I can see how my first post made me sound... Yes, this is my first rebuild. However, I have studied and read all I could find on the matter, and tried to make sure I was doing it right. As to all of your inquiries, yes, all of those I have done. I posted this somewhat out of despair, it was a hard day and I was exhausted and dumbfounded. The piston and rod wouldn't fit from the top, from what I automatically assume it was due to the slants small bore. I then figured they might go through the bottom, and as stated, it wasn't working... So I called it a night. Upon returning today to contemplate some more, I found the rod cap was still on. Take rod cap off = slides right down the bore. Somehow last night I missed that small detail, thus the cause of the whole problem... Sorry for the ignorant post! Thanks all though!

Author:	xjarhead [ Tue May 20, 2014 4:22 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: Not to sound insulting, but there is a lot running through my mind on this one. I guess it is the "high school shop teacher" in me. If you did not know the pistons go in through the top, do you know that: You need to check ring gaps? The rings gaps are to be turned 1/3 - 1/2 turn from each other? Did you mic or plastigauge the bearings/journals to make sure it fits right? Did you thouroughly clean and then wipe the cylinder down with oil? Personally, I dip the piston assys in oil when I install them as well. Did you know that the pistons/rods must be pointed "the right way" (assuming /6 are the same as every other engine in this respect)? My apologies if I sound like a tool, but I made all these mistakes on my first engine.....along time ago in a galaxy far far away. Not taken offensively at all, I can see how my first post made me sound... Yes, this is my first rebuild. However, I have studied and read all I could find on the matter, and tried to make sure I was doing it right. As to all of your inquiries, yes, all of those I have done. I posted this somewhat out of despair, it was a hard day and I was exhausted and dumbfounded. The piston and rod wouldn't fit from the top, from what I automatically assume it was due to the slants small bore. I then figured they might go through the bottom, and as stated, it wasn't working... So I called it a night. Upon returning today to contemplate some more, I found the rod cap was still on. Take rod cap off = slides right down the bore. Somehow last night I missed that small detail, thus the cause of the whole problem... Sorry for the ignorant post! Thanks all though! Not ignorant at all. Just show's sometimes we need to walk away and even sleep on it. May save someone else from trying to do this while they are tired. Dave

Author:	Doc [ Tue May 20, 2014 4:25 pm ]
Post subject:
Keep asking "dumb" questions... it is much better then making stupid mistakes. Pay extra close attention to the way the caps go on... they only "fit" (correctly align) one way... Bearing tabs are on the same side and the stamped numbers match and are on the same side. The bearing will "lock-up" and fail quickly if you mix-up caps or put them on the wrong way. Have the con rod "Big ends" been reconditioned? If not, make sure the bearing surfaces are really clean, before installing the bearing inserts. You should always feel some side-to-side clearance & movement ("end play") when everything is correctly installed and torqued down. DD

Author:	dartsport76 [ Wed May 21, 2014 7:31 pm ]
Post subject:
Doc, I stamped the rods and caps, and which way they go on. I didn't spend the money to have the rods reconditioned, but I will make sure everything is as clean as possible. Thanks everyone for the little tips, by the way. they will most definitely help. And Doug, not making stupid mistakes is what I'm tryin to avoid!

Author:	wjajr [ Thu May 22, 2014 4:49 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: And Doug, not making stupid mistakes is what I'm tryin to avoid! I think you meant: I'm trying to avoid making stupid mistakes. LOL We get your drift...

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