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pulling out 225
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55471		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  nashvegas99 [ Fri May 30, 2014 9:29 am ]
Post subject:  pulling out 225
I am looking to pull out the ol' 225 here in the next few weeks to month and wanted to ask about some tips and techniques that would make it a lot easier. I've got the lift, the chain, the stand, etc...but I wanted to ask about attaching points. I also wanted to ask if draining the tranny and just unbolting from the bellhousing is a good idea instead of pulling out tranny w/ engine.
My plans are to TAKE TONS OF PICTURES, label wiring, take more pictures, drain radiator, take off ex and in manifolds, take more pictures, and attach chain to pull out.

I have one bolt that is sticking out of the head right above 3rd and 4th port that looks like it is just doing nothing. whats the point of this bolt?
Author:  GTS225 [ Fri May 30, 2014 10:23 am ]
Post subject: 
That bolt is a factory lifting point that was used when the engine was installed in the car. If you look back between #5 & 6, you'll find a match to it. Use those two points, (3/8" coarse), and that engine will lift almost straight up. With the trans attached, it has a bit of a rearward tilt, but not too bad. Either way, drain the trans to keep from making a big mess.

Roger
Author:  Junior [ Fri May 30, 2014 10:30 am ]
Post subject: 
when i pull my motors i usually use the hole the top alternator bracket goes to the back boss on the top of the head by the valve cover. make sure you use bolts that arent to long or the can and will break. as far as the tranny goes i usually unbolt the torque converter (4bolts) and leave the tranny in there. just make sure you have everything unplugged when you do pull it. obviously the radiator hoses off and the radiator out to give some room, unhook the fuel line and the 5 or so wires in the harness. dont forget the oil sender, its on the passenger side all the way at the bottom. also the exhaust. there really isnt much to them. ive got it down to a science over the years i can have one out in a half hour if not a little faster. throw a jack or jack stand under the tranny to support it so it doesnt mess up your shift linkage hanging from it. just be careful these motors are heavy. pictures are always a good idea if its your first time.
Author:  Reed [ Fri May 30, 2014 10:49 am ]
Post subject: 
I usually use one of the alternator bracket mount holes and the rearmost hole on the block for the engine to trans brace. I have to play with th hook point on the chain to get the motor balanced, but it works out OK.

THe bolt you mention likely was for some for of emissions or choke related equipment. As has been mentioned already, those two bolt holes in the head can be used for installing and removing the engine. Most factory service manuals contains instrutions and diagrams of how to build a lifting tool out of angle iron and use those two bolt holes to lift the motor.
Author:  nashvegas99 [ Fri May 30, 2014 12:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
thanks for all the info and tips. I pretty much live my life by the motto "ain't nothin to it but to do it" and I guess that what I'm gonna do. I am glad that there are smart people around and on here though to help bail me out. thnx
Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Fri May 30, 2014 12:30 pm ]
Post subject:  pulling 225
I used the two 3/8 coarse threaded holes on the head in the area between the valve cover and the manifolds. You can see them clearly on this pic:

http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/201 ... ure19.html

You can get a load leveler at Harbor Freight (see link below) for cheap and it helps to tilt the engine when pulling and especially when reinstalling. The handle for the crank is cheap plastic, but the leveler is super heavy duty (grease the worm gear before use and it'll turn easier).

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarte ... 67441.html

Pay attention ahead of time to how much reach/height you have on your cherry picker, so that you have enough vertical so the bottom of the oil pan clears the fenders. I didn't use the angled pieces on the load leveler, just bolted (used grade 9 bolts and heavy washers just in case) the chains to the engine so I had more vertical lift. Note how the vertical support part of the leveler is adjusted toward the front chain to balance the block's weight for easy leveling. See pics:

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=74

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=75

I left the tranny in, supported by wooden blocks. Very easy to pick up engine vertically once you unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter and bump the engine forward with some upward and slight forward tension on it to separate the tranny from it. Take the starter off to reach the flex plate bolts from the top, don't have to crawl under the car that way (just turn the torque converter to get to each bolt. Before you remove the last bolt on the flex plate, spray the head of the last bolt and the flex plate with a quick shot of spray paint so you can easily align the flex plate correctly when reinstalling (the bolt pattern is asymmetric).

Since the slant is so long, it helps to pull the radiator out as well. Protects inadvertent damage to the radiator, since you will be moving a 400 pound object to and fro in the engine bay.


Brian :wink:
Author:  nashvegas99 [ Sat May 31, 2014 10:34 am ]
Post subject: 
alrighty, so I'm now trying to plan out what I'm going to do...
I've been looking everything over and I only have 3 of the triangle hold downs, the 4th is held on with a bolt/washer combo. THis leads me into my questions....
1) would you all take the studs out of the head and use bolts with tabs to hold on manifolds?
2) if so, what length should I get
3) the nuts came off after being soaked w/ PB Blaster, but I haven't tried any of the studs yet. Would taking a pair of vice grips be the best way to remove if I did that?
Author:  Fopar [ Sat May 31, 2014 1:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Use the two bolt holes next to the valve cover. The manifold studs may or may not hold the engine weight.

Richard
Author:  nashvegas99 [ Sat May 31, 2014 1:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
I apologize. I skipped a line or two there. I was intending to ask about when I replace the exhaust manifold and gasket. THat's what I was talking about with the stud question. But, thank you for your answer and time.
Author:  nashvegas99 [ Sat May 31, 2014 2:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
and if I wanted to make a couple of the triangle washers, could I use the 1 inch 3/16 flat bar and cut/grind to fit
Author:  Reed [ Sat May 31, 2014 3:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Unfortunately, I think the only place you can get the triangle washers new anymore is with a new exhaust manifold kit from Dorman or 1A Auto.
Author:  nashvegas99 [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 5:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Well, after some work, i finally got the manifolds loose and the intake off. The exhaust is in 2 pieces though and i cant get the exhaust pipe flange bolts off. Ive been penetrating with pb and wd but they arent moving. I think im going to gut the pipe several inchese after the bend and remove it with whats lect of ex mani. I hope there is some kind if sleeve to use to put the pipe back together since im not the best welder and i cant afford new exhaust system. Now i guess im in the looking stage for an exhaust mani that is in hood condition with the heat flap that works. Always something huh?
Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:50 am ]
Post subject:  triangle washers
See: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SLANT-SIX-SUPER ... 8a&vxp=mtr
Author:  1930 [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 11:15 am ]
Post subject: 
I dont believe there is a difference between that set and any other manifold set. A trip to the salvage yard would be in order
Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Sun Jun 01, 2014 3:00 pm ]
Post subject:  right...
I was just saying instead of buying a whole manifold with it...and if you don't have time to visit the salvage yards.

b
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