Ok, so I think I got this straight but I want to make sure I'm understanding it. the temp gauge and fuel gauge do not work in my 65 valiant. I removed the wire going to the temp gauge and ground it out with the key in on position. nothing, no movement. same with fuel gauge. if I'm reading correctly, this is most likely the voltage limiter on the instrument panel.

Any advice would be beneficial. thanks.

That's a good suspect, although a loose connection or two could cause the same issues. While you're at it, check the fuel gauge sender wire connection, and the fuel gauge ground strap (It electrically connects the fuel tank outlet and the fuel line).

There are solid-state limiters available ($50 or so, IIRC).

I cheaped out with the "7805" limiter option. It's not as nice, I hear, but it does work.

Be careful working around the instruments, and remember to disconnect the battery before you do. Don't let the smoke out!

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

so let me get this straight....for under 5 dollars and a little time, you made the gauges work like that? that is awesome. I sure hope I don't screw it up.

You wouldn't by chance have a parts number for the bulkhead connector would you?

well, I think that the gauges are shot. I took them out and put 9 volt battery to them and nothing. no movement of needle at all. all of the lights on the panel were blown, so im thinking that the voltage limiter went out and all of the gauges and lights were overloaded. the p.o. told me that the gauges didn't work. guess I know now. does it sound like that's what it is to anyone else?

does anyone know where I can get a set of replacement gauges?

The dash lights are not regulated, they get a full 12 volts. Not uncommon to buy an old car with all the dash lights burned out, a lot of people don't bother to replace them as they go.

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Gage cluster has to be grounded for its lights to work. Ground path is via screws that attach the cluster to dash. You can make a ground jumper from cluster metal chassis to a good ground on dash for testing

If the limiter stuck with its points closed, she got the full 13.8 volts and fried fuel and temperature gages. I haven't looked at a 65 Valiant dash for about 40 years, but you may find the voltage limiter for you dash is housed within the gas gage. If it is, you will need to disable your new (to you) gage's mechanical limiter if you build a Radio Shack electronic limiter.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

So i took the gauge faces off and checked them out. The tee tiny filament wire running from stud to stud was black and broke in two. So that got me to thinking...can i take a strand of copper speaker wire ( just a single thin strand of the wire itself) and solder to the posts inside? Then that lead to my next questions...does the filament wrap around the metal piece in the gauge or rest against it? Also, how does that little metal piece get moved to alter the needle?

I guess u jusg want to know if i can rebuild the little filament wiring and if anyone has a resource that shows how to rebuild one, i would appreciate it. Thnx and God bless.

HAPPY MEMORIAL DAY FROM ONE VET TO ALL THE OTHERS

I suspect that winding is varnished (insulated) coated wire such is used in an electromagnet, voltage regulator, or an electric motor. Once a winding experiences an over current condition it heats up melting the varnish, letting out all its smoke, and causing a short. This nothing more than an electromagnate. One needs to know the gage, number of turns of wire, and really small fingers to restore a device's correct operation.

The last time I did any of this sort of rebuilding was about 40 years ago when repairing a voltage regulator for a 1937 25-30hp short wheelbase Rolls Royce a buddy of mine had. That device had rather thick wire, and only about 20 to 30 turns. A fuel or temperature gage with hair thickness wire and a hundred or so turns will be a real PIA.

Your best bet would be to locate a used gage, or send yours out to be rebuilt.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The burned wire is actually a heating element. The element is calibrated to create a certain temperature at a certain voltage. You cannot just replace that with any type of wire. The metal strip it is wrapped around is a Bi-metal strip. It has different metals on each side which cause it to bend with heat. The element heats it up a certain amount and cause the gauge to move.
As has been said, your limiter failed closed and sent full battery voltage through the elements. You now have no choice but to replace the gauges and limiter. You can do that with either rebuilt gauges or used, good ones.

It is also a very good idea to disconnect the battery while removing the cluster. It is easy to short something or even have some back feeding of power when the ground is lifted. This can damage the gauges the same as a failed limiter.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

Great post fellas. Any leads on where i can get so e new ones that fit or canbe eebuilt without having to motgage ny child?

A quick search on ebay comes up with one, looks decent too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Plymouth-B ... 2b&vxp=mtr

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well,i think I'm going to give it a shot to rewire the gauges. Now, I only need some direction on the size of the filament wire. I can take it from there. Thanks.

I think i need to start looking for some new or rebuilt gauges. Aby help would be appreciated where im not going broke...haha