So I know I should venture onto the internet and research this myself but hey, the internet is a scarey place and I feel like I'm among old friends on this site so why not?

I have a somewhat adequet mechanical ability, I do all my own repairs on my cars as well as routine maintence and some repairs on friends/families cars, and I love learning new things.

It's no rush, as I have no rear end problems *knocking on wood* but I'd like to change my rear eventually for an 8.25 or 8.75 Suregrip to handle the 180-200 horsepower and similar torque I plan to build my Slant to over the next couple years.

That being said can someone start to explain the process to me?

How inlolved is this process? (I know I will need have the driveshaft eaither shortenednor lengthened accordingly)

Could I shim it and get the correct tolerences myself being that I've never done it?

Could this be done in my garage with multiple floor jacks/car on stands or should I not even bother? (I really just want to do all my own work)

Feel free to gift me any of your wisdom, I know some of you have a lot you can learn me

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19 Years young with a passion for all things old.

"Four doors for more....screaming passangers..(;"

"There's no replacement for displacement, but my \6 is still cooler than your V8"

Yes you can and should do it your self.


It can be done with one person , a flor jack and jackstands, but it is helpful to have another person to guide the old / new units in/ out over the springs..


Disconnect rear u Joint / drive shaft/
Disconnect parking brake cables
disconnect rear brake line / hose to rear end T.

Loosen or cut old U bolts (4) ...2 per side

Lift rear out with jack or helper.

Reverse this process for install.
Bleed rear brakes.

Adjust brakes / parking brakes

If swapping from 7.25 to 8.25 / 8.75 get drive shaft shorted etc. Research the dimensions before beginning any work.

Drive car.


This is an oversimplified explanation but you can do it.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks for the reply Greg,

Wait...it's that simple? Haha.

So how about rear end tolerances? If I go from say a 7.25 to an 8.25 and have the correct length driveshaft and correct yolks and all, but retain the original springs should the tolerance be automatically okay?

I have always been told there is a very limited allowance of angle that a rear end can have...
But I guess as long as you don't screw with everything it should be real close?

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19 Years young with a passion for all things old.

"Four doors for more....screaming passangers..(;"

"There's no replacement for displacement, but my \6 is still cooler than your V8"

If you mean pinion angle, here's an ARTICLE about checking and adjusting it.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Yes, I meant pinion angle, sorry I should be more specific, okay cool thank you for the reading material!

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19 Years young with a passion for all things old.

"Four doors for more....screaming passangers..(;"

"There's no replacement for displacement, but my \6 is still cooler than your V8"

I have never worried about pinion angle in anything 'cept for my race car, but it is wise to know about it and check it.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

if you are going from a 7 1/4 rear to an 8 1/4 you are going to need to shorten the drive shaft 1.65".

I think it's kind of funny, Greg, that your race car is almost exactly the same as my Val, but mine is that 70's root beer color and not gold. Oh and a vinyl top, and less rust.

But I really look up to yours as inspiration the "Ruster" is such a cool name, not to mention your quarter mile times baffle me and my father and uncle (I have shown them videos) and theme, and I'll be looking to copy some of your weight reduction tequniques

I want to build mine as a corner carver/cone killer though, so less motor more suspension work, maybe eventually a 4 speed and a low boostbblow through turbo setup but time will tell!

Again thank you for always being so helpful especially to new guys like me.


Junior thanks for the specs! I just wrote it down in my notebook right next to my unchecked box that says "Buy 8.25 or 8.75 SG" haha.

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19 Years young with a passion for all things old.

"Four doors for more....screaming passangers..(;"

"There's no replacement for displacement, but my \6 is still cooler than your V8"

Thanks moredoor,

I try to help when I can offer it.

I love that metallic root beer brown color... Definitely a 70's thing!

I am glad youy like my ruster... it's a 180* from my dart that I used to race.
Its' fun and that's what it's all about.

The rust makes the car lighter (like Acid dipping) but done over 40 years of salty Pittsburgh Driving.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I know what you mean! I think it's amazing that my valiant has survived it's entire life in New York and is pretty clean to be honest! It's got some small rust holes on the bottoms of the rear quarters but I've already patched some of it. Life's easy when you've got a Miller MIG and some sheet metal

Definitely love the theme of your car though and how u embraced the rust. The rear wheel wells look real badass! So does the entire custom front air damn/face sheild? I wouldn't know what o call it, but it looks like your car is always ready for battle, love it!

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19 Years young with a passion for all things old.

"Four doors for more....screaming passangers..(;"

"There's no replacement for displacement, but my \6 is still cooler than your V8"

Jack rear up and jackstand in front of tires on frame. Keep the front spring eyes bolted and lower the rear ones, I used a floor jack under the diff pumpkin and just rolled it right out over the lowered springs on the floorjack. Install was the same. Watch the pumpkin rolling off floorjack. The pinion angle should equal the driveshaft yoke angle minus 3 degrees down at normal drive height. So when you stomp on it it moves to neutral under spring wrap.

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I didn' t buy it, I built it.....