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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 3:28 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13399
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I am looking at swapping the rear gearset and carrier in the 8.25 rear axle in my brother's 74 Duster. Currently, it is a 2.2 gearset and carrier. I have a 3.2 gearset and carrier i want to swap. Never having done this before, I am a bit nervous. I want to have every gasket, shim, and other item I may need lined up and redy to go vefore I begin this project.

To that end, I have found this install kit:

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-128487 ... aster.html

Does that look like everything I will need to swap out a carrier and gearset in an 8.25 axle? Is this a good price?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 4:14 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2005 9:57 am
Posts: 1818
Car Model:
looks like a complete kit ...take your time when doing backlash setup..
keep on roddin'


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:14 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13399
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks. I think I will order a kit and review the FSM procedure (again). I am going to be installing "new" factory six leaf rear springs at the same time so this swap will really make a difference in both handling and acceleration. 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 4:00 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
Car Model:
You might want to contact the supplier & see what brand of bearings are in the kit. I usually get stuff from Randy's Ring & Pinion (ringpinion.com) since they use Timken, & there's some nice how-to pdf's to supplement the FSM, esp. when it comes to checking the mesh pattern on used gears- it'll seldom look like the nice pics in the book.

When I set up a carrier for the first time I use "checking" bearings- these are bearings that I hone the insides with a brake hone so that I can remove them "easily" . I'll reuse the old bearings for this if they aren't trashed or get a spare bearing set if they're cheap. This way I can change shims several times to get a good pattern & B/L- then I use the "good" bearings for final assembly.

On the same vein, I don't use the pinion seal or crush sleeve until final assembly- I just snug up the pinion flange & nut until the freeplay is gone & fit the carrier for checking. If your 8 1/4 uses the threaded side adjusters , you'll need to make-borrow-buy a tool to reach down the axle housing tube to turn the adjusters.

_________________
63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:22 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13399
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Thanks. I actually live a few miles from Randy's Ring and Pinion, so I may see what they have to offer.


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