Do you think an accusump (or equivalent) would help?
I don't know how many seconds of oil pressure it would supply.......
Also, when it dumps it's supply into the system, your oil level effectively goes up; which may help too..
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| oilpan thoughts... https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55530 |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Jun 05, 2014 6:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | oilpan thoughts... |
Dear Slanters, I am looking to put together another motor for the yellow 64 Valiant ("V2"). It has a stock oilpan and it uncovers the pickup on spirited driving. I'd like to set it up so it is safer, oil-pressure-wise, and maybe I can do an autoX or road course day with it occasionally. I have a couple of the late 70s Aspen/Volare oilpans and this looks like a nice option. I would drop the sump 0.8-1", add a 1qt kickout on the pass side, and baffle it. Looks like it should be easier to modify since it is essentially a square sump. I plan to dent the rear behind the sump to clear my 64 draglink and dent the front driver side corner to clear the K frame. I searched (oil AND pan, along with Doctor Dodge) and found some older comments by Doc and others about this pan. Here is one thread: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ht=oil+pan I would appreciate other thoughts or comments folks have on going this route. Thanks much, Lou |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Do you think an accusump (or equivalent) would help? I don't know how many seconds of oil pressure it would supply....... Also, when it dumps it's supply into the system, your oil level effectively goes up; which may help too..
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| Author: | Reed [ Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:27 pm ] |
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FYI- I am about 95% certain that the F body pan will fit in a 63-66 A body IF the V-8 centerlink is used. I believe I used a F body pan on the engine I placed (briefly) in my old 66 Barracuda Formula "S" and there was no interference problems with the K-frame or the center link. Granted, I don't recall ever checking clearance with the wheels at full turn in either direct, but there was space. |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:15 pm ] |
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I spoke to Doc about this also, and he had to dent one of the front corners to get that pan in an early A-body. Since the 60-66 pans are getting hard to find, I am going to notch and/or move the intrusive parts of the K member so that I have lots of room for either pan. I also will some day find a V-8 center link that doesn't cost me a arm and a leg!  Rick |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jun 06, 2014 10:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for your input, Ed, Reed, and Rick! Accusump adds complexity, so I prefer to do it with the pan if I can. I may go this route eventually, but the pan mods are required or the accusump will likely not keep up anyway on a long road course session/race. I will certainly make mods to the front left corner and rear of pan to clear K frame and 64 centerlink.... Any others?? Thanks! Lou |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:16 pm ] |
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when I did the ruster pan I designed it for straight line only. but if you like, go and review the ruster build thread in the dragstrip forum you can see what / how i did it. I might suggest some baffling around the pickup with one way doors leading into that kickout. the doors open to let the oil back into the center of the sump near the pickup but say on a hard lh turn, the slosh pushes the doors closed to prevent all of the oil going into the kickout and or uncovering the pickup. study the moroso / canton / stefs etc.. for road race pan designs and incorporate their best stuff into your pan as you see fit. also another good idea is to add apseudo one way screen made from simple hardware store expanded metal mesh bolted into the top of the pan, but under the windage tray. I do not currently have this in my pan but would probably add in in on the next tear down. Seymour's blue car pan has this in it.. that is is a modified truck pan that he had a guy build for him.. also edd jesolowski uses the same type of setup. it's cheap and easy windage separation. get to it with the cutoff wheel and welder. Greg |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:27 pm ] |
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another approach to look at.. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... d567200a5a Greg |
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| Author: | Tim Keith [ Fri Jun 06, 2014 11:42 pm ] |
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I had a hydraulic lifter motor in my '64 Valiant. It was in the car when I got it, there were no clearance problems. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sat Jun 07, 2014 5:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I had a hydraulic lifter motor in my '64 Valiant. It was in the car when I got it, there were no clearance problems.
Yes But you can put any pan on the bottom of the Hyd. Motor.Curious to know what pan was on there to cause no Interference problems. Greg |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sat Jun 07, 2014 10:44 am ] |
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I happen to have both a 60-66 pan and the Volare pan as well as a 63-66 K-Frame laying on the floor. I placed the 60-66 pan in place under the K-frame and marked where it sat. Then I put the Volare pan in the same location and you can see that there is some close areas. The silver marks are where i am going to cut the K frame and then re-inforce it. It will give me plenty of room to use the newer pan. I know this isn't exact but it is pretty close. Rick  
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sat Jun 07, 2014 11:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
hmmm.. that k frame looks awfully familar.. Greg |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sat Jun 07, 2014 12:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: that k frame looks awfully familar..
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Sat Jun 07, 2014 1:44 pm ] |
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Thanks for the ideas and pics, guys. I have a kit from Speedway engineering with trapdoors. I am a bit nervous about having moving parts for a true street car I plan on driving >50k before removing the pan again, but I will consider it... Maybe a limited street and track car. I may do a more limited version of the K frame cutting you are describing, Rick. Thanks for posting the detailed pics! Again, chassis rigidity will be hard to recover if you cut that much out. OK for a drag car, but not on the street or road course. IIRC, the strength/rigidity of a piece of pipe is related to the diameter squared, so be careful how much you cut out. This will be fun new territory! Lou |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sat Jun 07, 2014 2:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: chassis rigidity will be hard to recover
Good point! And I may cut down my "cuts" as well. Even though my car is moving more towards the race only side of things it is no use to do needless cutting. I plan to use a little heavier steel than what the factory did so that will help also.Rick |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sat Jun 07, 2014 3:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Thanks for the ideas and pics, guys.
Anything that Might move or fall of will just sit harmlessly covered in oil at the bottom of the pan.. You will have a screen on the pickup correct?I have a kit from Speedway engineering with trapdoors. I am a bit nervous about having moving parts for a true street car I plan on driving >50k before removing the pan again, but I will consider it.. Lou I would not worry so much about it.. but that is just me. Talk to other real street guys at your auto x's etc and get their input also  Greg |
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