I would add spurt holes for a street engine...
The location will be decided by the crank type & rod bearings used.
(Forged cranks go 45 degrees to the side and cast are pointed upwards)
Here are a few photos:
DD
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| Author: | ZombiClown [ Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Molnar Rods |
Hi all , building new turbo motor With Molnar rod and 268 KB pistons.(225) Question is ,New rods do NOT have squirt hole. Should I put one? If so should it be angled as the factory one OR straight up to the crown? I did read the cast crank/alum block build and failure and didnt really get the idea that NOT having a hole added any part of the issue as we know Many engines do not have these. Our tear down revealed 6 cracked skirts on otherwise unremarkable piston and bore.(stock replacement piston .060 flat .180 down in the bore) It was sounding like a rod knock after changing the oil so we tore it down to possibly save the crank. My assesment was that the car is MY sons Daily driver and when you ARE a hammer everything looks like a nail. Actually block was from pic your part after we discovered it had both Offy intake and valve cover (hood was stuck and opened with a sawsall) Any help on this would be good. David |
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| Author: | Doc [ Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would add spurt holes for a street engine... The location will be decided by the crank type & rod bearings used. (Forged cranks go 45 degrees to the side and cast are pointed upwards) Here are a few photos: DD
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| Author: | ZombiClown [ Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | T/y |
Thank you Sir , Obviously without falling into the ASS_U_ME trap this extra oiling is intended to get up into the bore and then cam after spurt hole becomes unshrouded from cylinder. As this car is a Daily driver with 833od I will drill. With 29"tires and 3.73 it cruises around 2000 rpm and I believe more oil would be a better choice. |
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