| Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| Alt putting out over 17v on w150 miser https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55829 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | W150ramheD [ Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Alt putting out over 17v on w150 miser |
Hey so I did a voltage test today. It tested my battery starter and alt.the battery gots over 13 volts ,my starters good cranked under a second ,but my alt is putting out 16 volts. I saw my regulator was melted so I put a new dura last regulator on it sence my shop has a account with autozone, and it did no change a new alt would only be 50 bucks but rather not spend it if it's not going to fix it cuz it's a common short or something or would y'all agree it's the alt |
|
| Author: | wjajr [ Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You have a voltage drop problem and or poorly grounded voltage regulator. I’ll explain: Voltage drop happens when for whatever reason a circuit tests out with voltage readings lower than what the battery is supplying. Causes of voltage drop can be found in two parts of a circuit; battery side all the wires connections and switches, and the ground path back to battery. If you place black volt meter probe on Negative battery terminal at the battery & the red probe along any segment of the charging circuit and the reading is less than what battery voltage is you have voltage drop in that segment. Same goes for ground side, place black probe on battery negative terminal and red on other ground points such as at cable end where it attaches to battery, block, voltage regulator’s base etc., and if the reading other than zero volts you have voltage drop in the ground path. Voltge drop is additive in a circuit, in other words -0.1 volt at each connection passing through bulkhead connection and -0.5 v at battery cable connection and the total would be as much as 0.9v, plus any drop in ground path say 0.3v all due to corroded conections, wire, and screws that fasten say a regulator to fire wall bringing the total to 1.2v in my example (your car’s millage may very). Our cars have a normal battery voltage of around 13.6v when engine is running. If the voltage regulator is seeing 13.6 volts at the blue wire plugged into voltage regulator all is well and in balance. But if voltage regulator is seeing our fictitious 1.3v drop from normal, 12.3v, it sends a signal to alternator to crank up production increasing circuit voltage to battery (this is the charge flow) enough causing voltage at said blue wire to 13.8 volts. That extra voltage needed is the amount of the drop in that circuit 1.3 volts. So in this example when testing voltage across battery when engine is running it will read out as 14.9v; that is to say voltage drop (1.3v) + normal battery/charge voltage (13.8v)= battery voltage when running (14.9v). Now that you had all three charge circuit devices tested, battery condition, voltage regulator function, and alternator and all are functioning within normal range, the problem is voltage drop. You need to check all connections with volt meter determine where any voltage drops are occurring and correct the problem by cleaning, replacing, and making up new connections of devices to sheet metal. Also if you find that the problem is in ground path, make up a ground loop of 10 gage wire and connect alternator, electronic spark control (orange box) & voltage regulator’s cases running this wire back to battery negative terminal. This fix will provide zero voltage drop to those devices. Start with cleaning, and testing battery connections, ground cable to block, and ground strap between head and fire wall. Then check all connections in charge circuit. Where you have 16 volts this represents a 2.2 volt drop. Make a copy of your wire diagram for your vehicle, attach to a clip board, and methodically trace out charging and ignition circuits inch by inch with volt meter, and make diagram up with each drop found. This keeps the project on track, and an easy record of where to correct any deficiencies; happy hunting. |
|
| Author: | W150ramheD [ Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thank u I'm start with cleanin up my grounds thank u for the help :) I'll let u no how it goes |
|
| Author: | nm9stheham [ Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What year model and is everything stock? Was this the original voltage regulator and the orignal alternator? Are there 2 small wires on the back of the alternator or just 1? (Don't count the large alternator output wire.) The alternator may or may not be the issue if it is putting out that level of voltage. 2 possiblilites: 1) The voltage regulator is not seeing the right voltage fed to it, and is commanding the alternator to put out too much, as above. 2) There is a short in the alternator field connector (in the harness or inside the alternator) that is causing the alternator to ignore the control of the voltage regulator. This applies to the 2 field wire alternator only. Poor grounds usually cause undercharging, not overcharging but you doo need to make sure they are good grounds. You should download your trucks schemetic diagram here: http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24 |
|
| Author: | W150ramheD [ Fri Jul 25, 2014 5:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | The chargeing system is stock |
It's a 85w150 (4wheel drive dodge pick up) with the /6, cleaned up all my grounds and cleaned up where the regulator bolts and ran a ground from reg to head ,block to battery, battery to body, block to frame and regulator to frame and did another test and now the alt is putting out 14.2 volts and man that thing sounded horrible I got the Timing mark under the lil tab on the light and messed with the carb air fuel screw till it sounded like a sewing machine and she will blister a tire again :) |
|
| Author: | wjajr [ Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Good Job! |
|
| Author: | nm9stheham [ Fri Jul 25, 2014 3:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well there ya go! |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|