1) When the car finally fires and runs, does it run OK?

For the most part she is strong, the occasional stall happnes though

2) When the car does start, does it start or try to run at anytime while it is being cranked over (when you are holding the key in the START position)? Or does it only want to fire when you have cranked it over some and then it starts or tries to fire at the moment that your release the key to let it rest? If you don't know, next time pay attention to where you have the key and when the car actually tries to fire. This can be an important clue about a condtion in the key switch that can cause your car's problem.

I normally have to let it rest in between tries and yes I get teases like it wants to start but wont and that is usually will i will work the gas more.

3) If I may ask, are you the lady in MD who has had this issue before, or for a while?

Yes I am

Regards, Mark B.

OK, sorry this is still plaguing you. The reason that I aksed about the key is that the key switch sends voltage to the spark system (ignition system) 2 different ways: one way is when you are cranking and the other way when the car is running. If it 'teases you like it wants start, then this is not likley the problem.

Yes- it teases me like it wants to start alot and throughout my many years with old chryslers and plymouths, this is when I really start pumping the pedal to get it to chatch

Do you have anyone who can help you do a few basic tests with a few simple tools?

I live in a very remote area alone, so no

Does this car do this at every attempt to start or does it only do this when cold, and does it start better when the engine is warm like if you stop into the store for a bit after driving and come back out within and hour and try to re-start it? In other words, is there a pattern of when it will start and when it will not?

Cold is the tuffest of times with it, winters for me are very long. It is known for not wanting to start though after running, like vapor lock i assume. For vapor lock I was taught many years ago to pump through that??

Also, when you look down the throat of the carb see if you can identify the throttle cable to the otuside of the carb and see if you can pull on the same spot to make the throllte blade at the bottom of the throat open up. You will have to open the flat plate at the top of the throat (the choke plate) to see down into the throat and see the throttle plate at the bottom. When you can see down into the throat while oenign the throttle, oy should see a small stream of clear ligquid which is gasoline shooting into the throat. If you can do this, we will have some idea if the carb is getting gas.

Will do

The picture of a carburetor halfway down this web page ought to be very similar to your carburetor; the moving plate in the top is the choke plate (also called the choke butterfly).

The next time you have problems starting it after it's hot, think vapor lock, try putting gas pedal to the floor and see if it starts better.
It worked for mine.

Dave

Brenda 65,

Having to pump can be caused by poor or no accelerator pump shot when warmed up during a restarting, and a slightly open choke when cold and or poor pump shot.