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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 11:37 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Posts: 211
Location: Bay Area, California
Car Model:
So this was a picture from about 3 months ago.

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I went under the hood today to move wires around to make room for my turbo setup, and the carburetor just looks odd.

I remember it being level, and the whole motor just looks cocked over, even though - it's supposed to, but too much.

Image

The distributor vacuum pod is literally touching the rubbery bushing, and the alternator has maybe 1" clearance to the fenders.

Has the mount on the passenger side failed? Or is something else out of adjustment i am not seeing?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 12:17 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Car Model:
Looks like you need to get new mounts :lol: :lol:

Richard

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:25 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 6:43 pm
Posts: 976
Location: SoCal
Car Model: Toad Wagon
I recently popped the hood to check fluids and such, and noticed a like cant to my mill. Thinking some unkind thoughts about my new poly mounts, I went under to have a lookie poo.

Now I find it very hard to believe I actually didn't tighten the block-side screws when I put'em in about a year ago, but it's not wise to argue with reality. They were not only loose, but one screw'd fallen out (fortunately, an upper one) somewhere. :oops:

I hope yours is only worn pads. :roll:

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Last edited by Old6rodder on Sat Aug 02, 2014 7:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:51 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Put a bigger carb on it too offset the problem


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 4:15 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Posts: 211
Location: Bay Area, California
Car Model:
Quote:
... hard to believe I actually didn't tighten the bolck-side screws when I put'em in about a year ago, but it's not wise to argue with reality. They were not only loose, but one screw'd fallen out (fortunately, an upper one) somewhere. :oops:

I hope yours is only worn pads. :roll:
I'm going to say maybe you did tighten them, because mine too were only hand tight, and the one towards the back was just off.


Quote:
Put a bigger carb on it too offset the problem
I was just going to hang the turbo off of it and it would be fine. lol.

The time it took me to go get the part and jack up the car, took longer than actually replacing the mount.

I figured it would be best to replace it asap, so why not now? I figured you guys were right and that it was the mount and I was wishing it wasnt because I thought it'd be hard, but it was actually super easy.

I jacked the car up at my shop. It's amazing, the front end is jacked up and the car is only level. lol. RAKE

Image

I only removed the distributor cap and wires. I DID NOT pull the alternator, and frankly, I'm glad I didn't because it would have been a waste of time, it was nowhere near in the way.

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Hello offending piece of garbage.

I'm not a scientist but I'd say that looks pretty broken.

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So I jacked on the pan with some 3/4" plywood, and had to raise the engine a lot to get it back to level. Once it was level, I was able to get the bolts on the block off just by hand. The center part of the pad spun while the bolts stayed still, and the other side broke off as well, so this happened with no effort whatsoever.

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Again not a scientist, but I play one on TV. And let me tell you. This is broken.

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EWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW

Remind me to clean this up. Many years of oil just there.

There was just the one bolt to acess under a dust shield behind the wheel. That one I actually had to use a wrench and hold what was left of the pad with my hand to get it undone.

New pad in place, with nuts set on, then dropped the motor and it smoothly went back to level and sat real nice.

Image

I left one mostly undone so you can see where it goes if anyone needs photographic instructions and stumbles upon this. After that, I tightened all three nuts, set the car back on the ground, and reattached the distributor cap and wires. AGAIN - I would not pull the alternator for this, unless your felixibilty limits your reach. I got the frontmost nut off the mount from under the car.

After I fired the car back up, it was surprising - the car doesn't really vibrate at all, and idles probably as smooth as it did when it was new. Wow, WHAT A difference actually attaching the engine to the car makes!

Image

Also now that its not leaning so far over I can actualy clean and paint the rest of the motor.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 3:16 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
I have been wondering if one were to replace both mounts or even just re-install an engine/trans assy are these mounts generally self centering on the K-frame.

There is a whole lot of play/up down side to side movement on the slots of these mounts so what would be the instillation procedure if starting from scratch?

Having removed and installed a few now I can say for sure that it would be pretty easy to have an engine off further to one side of the engine bay than another and so of course that would mean that the engine may be a bit tilted but maybe not enough to catch with the naked eye.


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