Hi Guys, I have my 63 Dart slowly coming back together and of course tons of "things" going on.

To recap, I rebuilt the engine myself. Block bored out .060, new pistons and rings, new bearings all around, reground cam from Oregon Cam and new lifters, Block deck cut .100. Head was rebuilt and cut .060. I went with a super six setup with a stromberg carb I rebuilt and it did run before the rebuild. I degreed the cam with much angst but it seemed to come out with the correct info.

Got a new later model radiator like a 76 to replace the trashed 63 and got new hoses today. which fit it looks like.

New plugs and wires and vacuum hoses. I( think thats most of it, but if youse gots questions let me know. )

So now when I try to start her she just turns over and over sputtering sometime but not any real firing and running. I read a thread that said a similar sounding was a classic 180 out so I just tried it and no go so put it back.

I have the rockers set close to ~.020 while cold, used a thin screwdriver blade to find TDC on #1 ensured the rotor was pointing toward #1 tower on the disty. I pulled plug wire #1 and using a screwdriver blade ensured I had spark. Tried using a splash each of gasoline, starting fluid and carb cleaner but no happy ending.

Of course what freaks me out is it was a pain to get the engine and tranny installed because of my back and now I fear that I must have screwed up the cam and will have to pull it all out again.

I want to thank Reed for all his excellent help over the past year including all others who've pitched in to hear my tales of woe.

So any thoughts or magical conjuring suggestions?

Cheers to yall, hope you are enjoying the weather where ever you are located.

John.

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Psychics will soon lead dogs to your body!

1963 Dodge Dart 270 convertible

#1 and #6 are both up at the same time. You must look at the rockers to see which one has both valves closed, if you put the cam in dot to dot it will be #6 with both valves closed.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

yep. TDC #1 both valves closed and adjusted them. Timing mark on 0° rotor pointing toward #1 tower on disty. but no happy so thought Id try the 180° switch.

_________________
Psychics will soon lead dogs to your body!

1963 Dodge Dart 270 convertible

Did you make sure that bvoth valves were closed after the intake valve was the last one to move? At tdc on the compression stroke and TDC on the exhaust stroke the valves will look like they are closed. However, you want it to fire at TDC on the compression stroke. You must rotate the engine while watching the movement of the valves. Rotate it until you see the intake valve open and then close, then keep rotating it until the timing mark lines up with TDC. Then you will be at TDC on the compresson stroke.

If you are positive that you have the #1 piston at TDC on the compresion stroke when the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower on the distributor cap, try rotating the distirbutor counter-clockwise SLOWLY while someone cranks the engine (or you use a remote start switch with the key in the "ON" position).

You filled the float bowl with carb cleaner/gasoline, right? Choke is closing? Wires hooked up to the coil? Plug wires firmly seated?

BTW I also checked compression.... 130 on all 6.

_________________
Psychics will soon lead dogs to your body!

1963 Dodge Dart 270 convertible

intake last valve to close, aligned crank mark with timing 0 and set rotor to #1. I will be going all over it again when it cools down again (back and weather). Must have missed something but cant figure out what yet.
Thanks Reed thought Id update the forum for once!

_________________
Psychics will soon lead dogs to your body!

1963 Dodge Dart 270 convertible

You'll find it. .020 is pretty close to the stock exhaust lash setting. I would go over the valves and give each adjuster a 1/2 turn counter clockwise just to make sure that the valves are closing completely.

Always go back to the basics and assume nothing.

Air? Decent compression numbers would seem to indicate that your cam timing isn't totally screwed up and that the valves are closing.

Fuel? You intoduced various fuels, so even if the carb was dry it should have at least popped.

That leaves ignition. Timing still off? Spark too weak? Flooded/soaked plugs?
Do you have a helper to crank the car while you look for the timing mark?

Take a break, catch your breath, and come back with a clear head. You'll get it.

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Being a fresh rebuild I'd put a little oil down the bores to lube the rings,after lots of cranking the fuel may have washed out most assembly lube and you don't want to scuff the bores... All good suggestions here,assuming the valve timing is right,and the fact you have compression sounds hopeful,the ignition timing sounds right,maybe check a few other items off the list of suspects.....
Are the plugs wet with fuel? I know you have spark,but that's not a guarantee you have spark under compression loads. Put a timing light on it while cranking and see if you have a spark at the correct point... I've had dud rotor buttons cause a non start,perhaps swap out the rotor button,cap,coil,and coil lead? That's assuming you have some others lying around....I realise you mentioned putting fuel down the carb,but do you have dry plugs? Is the carb full of fuel? I'm not a gambling man but get the inlet and outlet mixed up on the pump and it's a sure bet it's a no start.....it's unlikely but worth ruling out.hope it helps.

Thanks folks. I did put oil into each cylinder when I checked compression. It does look like the spark on the plug is weaker than the spark out to each plug.
I will connect the timing light tomorrow and see what it looks like, Ill recheck the points, plan on an electronic when I get it running.
Keep yall posted on tomorrows escapades.
Cheers and thanks!

_________________
Psychics will soon lead dogs to your body!

1963 Dodge Dart 270 convertible

Have you checked the ballast resistor? It's a classic symptom to have sputtering, or even starting, while cranking, but die as soon as you let the key drop back to "run".

Roger

Thanks Roger, ballast resistor is good. Going to go through the distributor today to check rotor and points, I did get a new cap and checked it well before buying it. It was machined well and very clean cut and contacts not aluminum but I did not replace the rotor nor points.
Once running I plan on going electronic.
Going to check things out today and will post results.

_________________
Psychics will soon lead dogs to your body!

1963 Dodge Dart 270 convertible

Spent time this morning going over the distributor and rechecking my setup. Took some breaks to watch the Little League World Series.

I found that the top contact on the rotor was kinda whacked so I corrected this. I put the timing light on the car and after closing the garage door a few times to get a better view I found that I was off a good bit on the timing. The car is in the garage stall and its so dang big I have to open the garage door to get to the far side cause I cant walk in front of it when the garage door is down.
I moved over a tooth and of course it was the wrong way so moved it back and timing was right on and it fired up and ran quite well. Except, always an except it seems, I heard gushing and looked up the car and transmission fluid was dripping out from a too loose cooler line. Dang those are hard to get to when you cant get the car up enough. Also that is some slippery stuff when you got rubber gloves on and a smooth chrome wrench.
After tightening it up it doesn't leak as much I think I need to get back on it and give it another turn.
Then another except, I have oil drooling from around the oil pump, I know I had a bit of weirdness with the WIX oil filter seal so Ill pull it in a bit and recheck. I also want to see about tightening the oil pump though I torqued the bolts when I put it in.
Then last thing is the Holley carb is not letting fuel in for some reason. I pulled the brass fitting where the fuel line comes in and there is some type of pin or needle like thing that is blocking fuel coming in. I have not taken the carb apart but does this ring a bell with anyone?
I ran for a bit till fuel ran out and it sure sounded good and strong. Gremlins I tell ya GREMLINS!

_________________
Psychics will soon lead dogs to your body!

1963 Dodge Dart 270 convertible

Two steps forward, one step back!

Sound like you have found the fuel inlet needle. That is supposed to be there, but if the float level is set too low the needle will seat and won't let gas into the float bowl. Check your float level.

Remember to follow proper cam break in procedures on initial startup.

ok, so I think I should rename this thread to something like Too Dang OLD to remember S**T! or I suffer from CRS! or Never wait a LONG time to put something back together cause you will forget a lot of stuff!

The Holley carb was one I had gotten from Reed back last year and NOT the Stromberg I had which I rebuilt. Because of this I confused the needle and seat I put into the WW with the one on the Holley and it just confused the heck out of me. Dang, sometimes I feel so old...

I seem to have gotten the tranny cooler line leak contained but I pulled the oil filter and the gasket was lubed and ok, so I replaced the Holley with the Stromberg and it fired up and the float bowl filled up and it kept running. Problem is I have oil pouring out of what looks like the oil pump. what the heck were they thinking putting that dang thing so close to the kmember?

Oh well looks like I get to tilt the engine up and try to get a look at the oil pump next.

Cheers.

_________________
Psychics will soon lead dogs to your body!

1963 Dodge Dart 270 convertible