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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:48 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:13 am
Posts: 444
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
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hi sages- had to hand turn my crankshaft from the front in my 76 fetha dusta. its a 225. hasnt been started in 5 years whilei seek parts and slowly do fixups. ran fine 5years ago. heres the question- the vibration damper pulley - how does it attach to the crank? thought they all had a big center bolt on the pulley- couldnt find it with fingers. does it attach differently- side bolts or pins? eventually turned the crank both ways by pulling the fan belt both ways. seems to turn both ways easily. worried that the engine was rusted stuck. lucked out this time. thanks tons bob fisher ps- are piston to cylinder rust stuck engines toast or can they be freed. never had that problem but when i do want to have an alternative plan b


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:04 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 6:25 am
Posts: 831
Location: Tompkinsville, KY
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The dampers are a press (interference) fit, so they will stay put even without a bolt.
Many slants are missing their damper bolts from the factory, and they never miss a beat.
Put it on your shopping list if you wish.

A previously running engine that is now 'stuck' could be afflicted by anything from fuel varnish (biggest danger - stuck valves) to major cylinder rust (overbore time).
In any case, a little exploratory surgery would always be in order just to be sure with what you're dealing.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:13 am
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Location: Jensen Beach, FL
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thanks for you answer 6ndahead- but need clarification for future reference and to avoid shyster charges from dealers. if the pulley is pressed on does one need a puller which pulls from the body of the part and pushes via a turnbolt on the crank end? do these crankshafts have a screw hole in the crank end to press on a new pulley or secure the pulley? hard to believe that a mere press fit would hold with all the torque and stress applied to that part. thanks tons bob fisher


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:58 am 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
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Location: Eugene, Oregon
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Bob you will need a puller (3 point bolt hole type) and I would put in the bolt with the big thick washer on reinstall (same size as big block).

Richard

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 Post subject: slantsixes for flatheads
PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 10:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:13 am
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Location: Jensen Beach, FL
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hi fope- thanks for the info. guessing it comes off pretty easy with the puller. do you pull out the radiator to get clearance for the tool? are you still running that 53 mainline with the retrofitted slant six? did you ever put in that 3 spd manual trans with semiautomatice electric overdrive. since you already had the sl6 in a dodge 4 speed od would have been easier except for the hole youd have to cut out in the floor. that old ford od in you junk pile might have been best if you could find an adapter plate for the bell to trans. always wanted one of them for my 53 flathead but couldnt find one. think borg warner made the old ford od. regards bob f


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:45 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
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Location: Eugene, Oregon
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Bob good to hear from you and if you want the OD trans I still have it (shipping $ would be a bunch). The 53 has a 904 and I still have it plus the 63 Dart with the 6 Mikuni carbs, also am building a rear engine dragster with same setup.
Yes pull radiator for clearance.

Richard

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