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| Dual Electric Fans https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56217 |
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| Author: | jhdeval [ Wed Sep 17, 2014 1:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Dual Electric Fans |
So after my accident I noticed my mechanical fan is bent back. I purchased a set of dual 10" electric fans and I have found several temperature based kits to control them. My question is what temperature sender do you use? Is there a way to get the temperature to the dash and to control the fans? |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Get an adjustable temperature switch. |
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| Author: | Junior [ Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
im running something like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLEX-A-LITE-ELE ... 55&vxp=mtr works pretty good. hasnt given me any trouble yet. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Thu Sep 18, 2014 12:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm not a fan of the "divorced" type sensors... the one that don't actually touch water. Tried one once.... just seemed too sensitive to air movement from the fan, you had to find the right spot on the rad that would expose it to the heat but not have the air move across it so that it was prematurely cooled. Which was pretty much no where. Get the type with a stock-type screw in sensor. Put it in place where the stock sensor is. Then move the stock sensor to the top rad tank if your rad has a threaded bung there. Some heads have multiple sensor holes. Push comes to shove you can drill & tap the thermostat housing. Just be aware that now the stock temp gauge won't show you warmup progression and will only be accurate after thermostat opens. This may work for you and is adjustable. If you piece together your own sensor and relay you may be able to do it cheaper. About the sensor temp - you'll get a different answer for every person you ask. It will also depend on which thermostat you use. I'd say maybe 10deg or so above thermostat - for example if you use a 195, you'd turn it on at 205 and off at 195 so the thermostat stays open and engine won't cool off too much. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Thu Sep 18, 2014 2:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use a sensor like that on my Toyota truck. Back side of radiator (not thru fins) near inlet upper corner It's in a dead spot air flow wise...... |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Fri Sep 26, 2014 3:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I just use a stock GM 210 degree sensor screwed in the top of the radiator. GM used them on many models for many years and are very common. |
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| Author: | Mark Murray [ Sat Sep 27, 2014 11:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Drill and tap head temperature sending unit hole for common chevy sending unit. Use shop vac to suck metal chips when you are drilling and can be done in car quite easily. If you can borrow correct tap size cost will only be a little time. Search Summit racing or Ebay for type of kit you want . |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sat Sep 27, 2014 11:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I just use a stock GM 210 degree sensor
So what car/model are you asking for to get this 210? Do they make different temperature ones?Thanks, Rick |
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| Author: | slantvaliant [ Sat Sep 27, 2014 9:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm using the stock sender for the temperature gauge, and a Wells TS217 switch in an inline fill adapter spliced into the radiator hose. Not quite optimal, but it does work. |
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| Author: | Sean Mallory [ Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: im running something like this.
I've gone through many of those over the years. They don't hold set temp very well either. I would never use again.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLEX-A-LITE-ELE ... 55&vxp=mtr works pretty good. hasnt given me any trouble yet. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have never replaced the thermostat switch in the last 15 years or more, Wells TS217, 3/8" NPT, two terminal. Most of the off-road guys out here use this switch in their jeeps. It is also a stock switch found in GM vehicles in the 90's from Cameros and Firebirds to full size cars.....like Monte Carlos, trucks, etc... Very simple, screw it in the radiator tank after taking out the vacuum switch...and works well when you need it like when stuck in rush our traffic for hours. A very inexpensive set up that is basic and stable and water can't hurt it. Some Flexi-Lite units I have had burned up and did not last long. They stop working if they get any moisture in them during the rainy winter months. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the tip on that temp switch, folks. I will try that too. Lou |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Summit and Jegs carry many other screw in temp switch ranges, 195, 180 etc. I have a spare in the other side just in case....wired in parallel. |
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| Author: | oldskoolracer [ Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Best bang for your buck will be any DIY! All you need is a fuse (or breaker), a 4 or 5 pin relay, a little bit of wire, some connectors and the temp switch of your choice. Im a fan of the one wire switches for simplicity reasons, they just close the ground for your relay at the set temp... ALOT will disagree with me here, but I like to wire mine using full time power to the relay and no "switched" wire. This will allow the fans to run for a short time AFTER the engines off if its still hot enough to keep the temp switch in the closed position... Just like the "run-on" feature on practically ALL modern cars. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Oct 02, 2014 8:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Agreed! The last 15 years or so I have never had any heat soak issues since installing the electric fans with this feature. Nice to have....! |
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