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82 Slant Build
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56249
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Author:  Alaskanmopar [ Sun Sep 21, 2014 9:21 pm ]
Post subject:  82 Slant Build

Hello All. First post here. Hopefully I am in the right spot. I am doing a frame up custom(restoration?) on a 70 D200 Sweptline. The truck had a 318 in it but I wanted a six. They have been hard to find as of late here. Granted I wanted a pre 76 but just didn't happen. I ended up with a slant from an 82 dodge including the 4 speed. I did some looking on several sites, this forum and others but hadn't really found what I am looking for yet and hoping someone has some help for me.

I want to of course add more power to the engine, but torque is the main goal....it is a truck after all and it will pull small loads and/or a camper from time to time. I am hoping some one can point me into the right direction.

Here's the kicker...I have a somewhat open budget to build a decent Slant. Now we aren't talking 10 k or something that far out. But I'm thinking this should be pretty doable in the 3,500.00 to 5,000.00 range. Thanks in advance for the help.

Author:  xjarhead [ Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:41 am ]
Post subject: 

Maybe Dad Truck will chime in he just did a Hydro engine.
Maybe search for his post's on cam selection.

Dave

Author:  xjarhead [ Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:44 am ]
Post subject: 

Check this thread out too http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23314

Dave

Author:  Alaskanmopar [ Mon Sep 22, 2014 1:50 pm ]
Post subject:  82 Slant Build

Thanks for the reply. I did see Dad Trucks cam profile. However none of the builds listed in the build site address a hydraulic head. I'm hoping someone will chime in with some experience and suggest a build. Something that includes what they would use for intake and exhaust as well as the rotating components.

Author:  Rick Covalt [ Mon Sep 22, 2014 2:12 pm ]
Post subject: 

I think Dadtrucks is a hydraulic head engine. Either way the big (or not so big) issue is push rod length. If you do your build and install bigger valves and a bigger cam, you will likely need to up the C.R. some to make everything work nice together. Once you plane the head to raise C.R then you need to be careful on your push rod length. Smith Brother's can supply you with anything you may need.
If you plan to keep this long term, I'd probably invest in a Dutra front mainfold on the exhaust side. (Once and done). Headers also work well but are more prone to rusting out.
The super six / BBD or 2280 Holley for that matter run really well . The problem I have is the prices that some people have been getting for this stuff. I am not paying 250+ for a 35 year old super six set up, that may need the carb rebuilt. I have purchased 3 4-barrel intakes over the last couple years and did not give $100 for any of them. I would keep my eyes open for one of them and then install a 2 barrel or a small 4 barrel. The Edelbrock 500 is a good choice. Just a couple opinions. :lol: :lol:

Rick

Author:  Reed [ Mon Sep 22, 2014 2:46 pm ]
Post subject: 

There isn't much difference between a post 1981 "hydraulic" head and the pre-1981 "mechanical" head. The design of the combustion chamber did not change (other than hardened exhaust valve seats) after the 1968 combustion chamber revision. Pre and post-1981 heads are interchangeable. The "hydraulic" and "mechanical" refers to the camshaft and lifters. In 1981, Chrysler FINALLY updated the slant six and gave it hydraulic lifters. For whatever reason Chrysler also decided to change the shape of the valve cover and the mating surface for the valve cover on the cylinder head in 1981. Other than the valve cover, there is no real difference between the pre and post 1981 heads.

The big issue IS pushrod length, but the slant six lifter has insane amounts of plunger travel so you can get away with fairly significant cuts to the cylinder head to raise the compresion ratio. I believe you can do a build that shoots for about 8.1:1 DYNAMIC compression ration and keep the stock hydraulic cam. Dadtrucks experiments indicated that significant gains can be made just by raising compression and using the stock hydraulic cam.

Author:  DadTruck [ Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:16 pm ]
Post subject: 

link to Oregon Cam hydraulic cam selection

http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/Hydraulic-Cam-Specs.html

this list is dated 2003,, give them a call and they will fax to you an updated listing..

on my build I had .041 cut from the head and .010 from the case, with the re ground cam the hydraulic lifter pre load ended up with .015 of OE stock. The stock lifters have .180 of total preload travel,, factory stock they were .090 to .100 in,, now they are .080 to .075 in.

static compression is 8.49,, runs on reg gas..

Author:  Alaskanmopar [ Thu Sep 25, 2014 1:44 pm ]
Post subject:  82 Slant Build

Thanks for all the replies. Its been a big help. Ive got some time to continue listening to ideas and suggestions. Ive gotten the frame blasted and painted. Front Ibeam, rear axle rebuilt blasted and painted as well as a full 4 wheel disk conversion on the 70 d200. I should be able to have the running gear under the truck in the next two week before I look to start the engine and tranny part.

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