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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 5:44 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2014 5:40 am
Posts: 14
Location: Mt. Pulaski, IL
Car Model:
I have checked continuity through the heater controls, by passed the lowe pressure switch and hooked the AC clutch directly to the battery to see if it locks ( which it does)... What am I missing? Is there a relay on this system? If so, where is it located? There is another relay next to the starter/charging relay but I checked the parts store and they said that was an idle stop solenoid relay. Also, anytime I look up AC relay in online catalogs I get parts for every other year but mine. What gives?

Is the AC somehow tied into this system as well? Is that also the AC relay? Any information is greatly appreciated

HARV


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 4:28 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
Car Model:
Your experience here is why I don't like continuity/ ohm tests. You need to test voltage at the compressor clutch connector- it must have some electrical load applied to the circuit- ie, the clutch is plugged in. Turn the ignition switch to run, & turn the AC on.

The black wire to the clutch is a constant ground- it's gotta be almost 0 V (it goes to the "J9" ground splice somewhere in the eng bay harness- the same ground circuit for the heater blower).

The D. blue wire is supposed to have power (12V) - it comes from fuse #13- goes to the AC control head "mode" switch -white wire(it's turned ON in any of the AC or defrost modes). From there it goes (D blue/Or. wire) to the pressure switch. From the pressure switch it goes to the clutch. (my info shows the press sw as a cycling & low cut out sw).

You've got 7-8 different connections involved on the power side. See what's missing at the clutch- (+) or (-), & back track it (it'd really help to have a FSM for your truck on this kind of stuff).

_________________
63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl


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