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Want to install a modern stereo.. im going to try at least. https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56470 |
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Author: | Avalon [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 1:49 am ] |
Post subject: | Want to install a modern stereo.. im going to try at least. |
I want to install a modern aftermarket stereo to the bottom of my 64 Valiant's dash with new speakers so I can enjoy the best of both worlds. Now I have an idea on how to do this. I can connect the speakers directly to the stereo harness and somehow connect the battery and ignition. It should be smooth sailing after that. But its easier said than done of course. What do you guys think? |
Author: | oldskoolracer [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 11:07 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Are there speakers already, or factory stereo already? |
Author: | Reed [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 12:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
The biggest problem you will run into is the fact that there is only a single 4x7 (I think) speaker hole in the middle of the dash. In 64 the "Hi-Fi" option was an optional rear speaker (singular) on a mechanical reverb unit that made some neat delay effects. Stereo wasn't available. Mounting the stereo under the dash won't be a problem, nor will wiring it. Jst wire up the (+) and unswitched leads like any other car. You will need to get creative about front speaker mounting but there are 6x9 holes already in the rear package shelf. However, if you have the optional rear window defog unit the passenger side 6x9 hole will be occupied with the fan unit. The fan can be mounted on the rear seatback frame though. Just be sure you have no holes in the trunk and no exhaust leaks. A board member used to fabricate a plate that would mount in the front 4x7 speaker area in the dash that would accept two 3 or four inch speakers for stereo sound without hacking up the dash or kick panels or doors. |
Author: | oldskoolracer [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 1:19 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
For power supply, what I did on mine was install two small fuse panels on the driver kick panel, (also used for other accys), one runs full batt + and I used a relay powered by the original stereo wire for an acc panel... Makes install easy, you dont have to "splice" into the factory wiring anywhere and gives you a couple extra fuses for future use if you need for gauges, acc lights, fans, etc... I can get into more detail on my install if youd like, but for now just wanted to share the idea... |
Author: | Reed [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 1:33 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
No reason why you can't use the factory (+) feed to the radio for the switched lead and then install an independant FUSED lead for the memory functions (clock, stations, etc...). |
Author: | xjarhead [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 2:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Check this out http://www.classiccarstereos.com/catego ... Radio.html Dave |
Author: | bcschief [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 2:37 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Will most likely find you will have to cut the dash for the radio. There are companies out there that can retrofit your radio with modern electronics and retain the original look and not have to cut the dash. Speakers are a different problem. Brian |
Author: | Reed [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 2:37 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Personally, I like the services that take the factory original radio and add line inputs and inputs for use of modern MP3 players and/or mobile phones. I prefer to keep the dash looking period correct if possible. |
Author: | oldskoolracer [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 2:55 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
If there is room you can build a small center console to house the head unit in, or a small frame to mount under the dash (will require screwing into dash), mounting it in the glove box (not very accessible), get a retro style deck with i-pod/mp3/aux input built in, or have your factory one modified... The upside to hiding the head unit is that most new stereos have pretty damn good remotes and you can use most all of the functions with the remote... And if you really think it through you can come up with many creative mounting/install ideas! |
Author: | Avalon [ Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:59 pm ] |
Post subject: | i |
Quote: For power supply, what I did on mine was install two small fuse panels on the driver kick panel, (also used for other accys), one runs full batt + and I used a relay powered by the original stereo wire for an acc panel... Makes install easy, you dont have to "splice" into the factory wiring anywhere and gives you a couple extra fuses for future use if you need for gauges, acc lights, fans, etc...
Yea please do, I'm interested.I can get into more detail on my install if youd like, but for now just wanted to share the idea... Here are the speaker holes |
Author: | oldskoolracer [ Thu Oct 30, 2014 10:44 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Fist I have to say that rear parcel shelf is awesome and has alot of potential! Ill try to upload a couple pics later if I can for you but what I did was buy 2 universal fuse panels, each one has 6 slots for a fuse. Each one has a single battery post for power supply to them. Found a nice place on the driver kick panel to mount them under the dash. Ran an 8 gauge wire from batt (+) to a 60a fuse then to the first fuse panel. Then used one fuse slot to give power to a relay (pin 30), used the factory stereo "on" wire (which is fused from the factory panel) to activate the relay (pin 85), wich gives power to the second fuse panel (pin 87), and ground to frame (pin 86) Its a pretty straight forward install, and the only load on the factory harness is to turn the relay on. The panels can be bought in a variety from holding 4 fuses up to 10 or more, some have a buss bar to give power to multiple accesories off of one supply lead. So far I have added gauges, an aftermarket stereo, and HEI power... Still have space for elect fans in the future as well as headlight relays in the very near future. |
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