My starter motor is not working - 62 Valiant.

When I turn the ignition switch I hear a "click" and the starter motor does not function.

Any feedback on the cause of my problem.

Thanks.

Battery

bad connections

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

If it is a light click, then likely it is the starter relay working but the starter is not working. May be the starter, relay or battery connections or low battery (as noted above).

If it is a heavy click or clunk, then the relay is working and the starter solenoid too, but the the current to the starter armature is not flowing to turn the starter motor.

1. Connections: Clean both battery connections with a wire brush inside and out and re-connect. This cause this failure a LOT! Also, check your ground to the block and the battery lead to the big starter lug and the starter bolts being tight (which provide the ground connection to the starter).

2. Test the starter realy output: Connect a voltmeter or 12v test light to the small connection on the starter adn see if you get a bright light or close to 12V on that point when you turn the key to START, then the starter relay is working but the starter is bad. If not, then something is wrong in the relay.

3. If a starter problem is detected above: The starter solenoid does 2 things: It throws the bendix gear into engagement with the teeth on the flywhlle or flex plate, AND makes an internal connection from the big lug to the starters winding armature. A 'clunk' says the solenoid is working but not making the internal electrical connection. For most folks, time for a new starter.

I have checked the battery, it is ok.

I replaced the starter motor with another spare I had, same problem.

Is it possible I have a faulty ignition switch?

Thanks

No, if there was an ignition switch issue you would never have heard the click. That click is the ignition switch activating the starter relay.

Make sure the car is in park or neutral while doing this.

Take a long screwdriver and short out the big and small terminal on the starter. Be careful it doesn't touch the block, trans, etc or any other metal/ground. If this doesn't work (assuming both your starters aren't busted) then check the heavy wire between battery and large starter terminal.

If that does work and the starter turns, take your screwdriver and short out the two larger terminals on the starter relay. If the starter still doesn't turn, check the wire from battery to starter relay.

If both tests work, then replace the relay.

Thank you for this info, I will try what you have suggested.

Sometimes when I turn on my ignition the ignition light does not glow red OR takes a few seconds to glow red. Other times it lights red immediately - that is why I thought my ignition switch was the problem.

Given that I have the same problem with a different starter motor (and assuming they are both ok) and I have checked my battery with a hydometer, I am thinking it could be the heavy lead from the battery to the starter.

You mentioned the relay - where is it located? Is it part of the starter motor or is it on the firewall - I have a 61 Valiant.

The starter relay is separate from the starter. Follow the big lead from the starter and it comes from the starter relay. The battery's main output also goes to the starter relay. The problem also can be the starter relay itself; it may be moving inside but not completing the contact inside to connect the 2 big leads together to put batery juice to the starter.

Get a 12V test light and put it on the starter lead at the starter relay; it should light up when you turn the key to START and you hear the click. It not, then the relay is bad. It has electrical contacts inside that moves to connect the 2 big terminals together when you activate the relay with the ignition switch in START; sometimes these contacts get burned and will not make contact on one side or the other. Move the test light to the battery lead side of the starter relay: it should light up and stay lit when you turn the key to START. If it goes out, then there is a problem in the big lead from the battery.

Download your wiring diagram here; it will help.
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=26

You may be right on the ignition switch if the red dash ligtht does not come on immediately. When you say "ignition light", do you mean oil pressure light?

But another possible problem could be the oil pressure light socket or the oil pressure switch on the engine block. Use your test light and connect it to the wire going to the oil pressure switch down on the oil pump (under the oil filter) on the side of the block near the distributor, whiel the wire is still connected to the pressure switch. Turn the ignition switch to RUN but don't start, If you have 12v (i.e., the test light lights to any degree) when you turn the ignition siwthc to RUN and the dash light does not come on (or comes on only weakly, then the oil pressure switch on the oil pump is erratic.

Hi, I replaced the starter relay and all is now ok.

As I originally heard the "click" sound when I had the first starter relay I am wondering if it was ok too as it was probably working, and my mucking about may have improved the connections, etc.

Any comments?

Also, on the relay I see "S", "I" and "Bat" markings.

What do these mean?

What is the difference between a starter relay for a manual and auto?

Thanks.

Bat = connections to/from battery
S = Solenoid lead to starter
I = Lead from ignition switch

No difference between manual and auto trans starter relay in later years; the G lead (ground) goes to the neutral safety switch (NSS) on the auto trans, and the clutch pedal switch on the manual trans. The clutch switch was not used for some time in these cars so either the ground lead went to ground or a 3 leaded starter relay was used in early manual trans cars.