I completed a full front end bushing replacement on my ’72 Scamp 225/4bbl about six months ago when I completed the disc brake conversion. I went with the polygraphite upper control arm bushings and am very happy with the handling. Unfortunately several months after completing this work, the UCA bushing started to squeak so badly I preferred to drive other cars. After reading several posts that did not help my particular situation I decided to pull the wheels and see what was going on. With the car supported by the frame on one side and the wheel on the other, the wheel down side suspension was almost completely extended. Jouncing the car on the wheel down side with suspension extended made no noise. I had read that the UCA bolts needed to be torqued when the car was on the ground after getting the alignment completed. With the car jacked and making no noise, I decided that even though I had gone to a very reputable So Cal alignment shop that specializes in older cars, they must have torqued the UCA bolts with the car jacked up.
So how do you get to the UCA bolts with the car sitting on the ground? I removed one wheel and lowered the disc rotor down (not the edge of the rotor but the deep part where the lug bolts are mounted) so it sat on a stack of wood blocks so the rotor was about the same height as when the wheel was on. If you support the lower control arm on a jack stand, the car will still sit higher than on the wheel. Using one wrench to hold the alignment bolt is the same location, I loosened the alignment bolt nut. While holding the alignment bolt in position, I jounced the car to allow the bushings to settle in the proper location. While still holding the alignment bolt, I then retorqued the alignment nut. Completing this for the second alignment bolt and then on the other side of the car, I now have no squeaks. Hopefully this will last a while.

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'64 Valiant Conv V8
'72 Scamp /6 4bbl
'79 Adventurer SE

Torquing the C/A bolts at ride height only matters on stock-type rubber bushings. They have rubber bonded to inner & outer metal sleeves- as the suspension moves up & down the rubber twists & flexes between the sleeves- but there is no rotational "movement" like you'd have on a metal bushing or bearing. If a rubber bushing is torqued with the wheels drooping (full rebound position), then they'll be stressed at normal ride height & will tear when jounced (full upward position).

Your poly bushings act more like a metal bushings- the inner sleeve rides on the poly as if it was a bearing surface- it doesn't have a "neutral" position like a rubber unit. Your squeak relief is likely temporary. I've seen some poly designs that used silicone grease during assembly, while others came with grease fittings so you could "lube the squeaks away".

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

When I re-bushed the front end on the Wife's 75 Dart and Son's 74 Scamp, I thought seriously about "pre-loading" and the twist that those rubber bushings take. I checked the 75 Service Manual and, as I recall, couldn't find anything telling me to pre-load them by putting the UCA & LCA into an intermediate position during installation of the bushings. Then I thought: at the factory assembly line, I bet they didn't "pre-load" during assembly either. So I took the easy route- hang 'em loose. Does anyone have any more definative info? (Like, did I screw up?)

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

It's polygraphite upper control arm bushings vs. factory rubber bushings. Rubberis soft and tends not to squeak no matter what method of install. Hard polygraphite does not like to deflect quietly.

I have tubular upper control arms with poly bushings that drive me crazy with squeaking, and I installed them with lower control arm at ride height. The need for TUCAs was to correct a negative caster problem, and no rubber bushings were available at time of install; perhaps poly-only has changed since 2008.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Yes you are both correct. The driver side is back to squeaking. I'm going to attract lots of attention at the Cruisin for a Cure show.

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'64 Valiant Conv V8
'72 Scamp /6 4bbl
'79 Adventurer SE

Yes Louie, you messed up. The factory assembly line didn't torque any of those C/A pivot fasteners down until the alignment was done- which had to be set with the wheels on & torsion bars adjusted to proper ride height.

You can look for "definative info" if you want, but experience has shown me; if rubber C/A bushings aren't at ride height when tightened, then they will tear (much sooner than they should).

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Spray some wd40 or other type lube (winzor polylube)on it.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

VBW I have tried WD40 and silicones etc with 2 day results. I need longer results. I just tried to get some Winzer and you have to buy 12 cans. Are you really sure of this stuff? If it lasts a month it would be worth it.

Anybody in so California with some Winzer that I can try?

Stephen Shaw
562-481-6301

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'64 Valiant Conv V8
'72 Scamp /6 4bbl
'79 Adventurer SE

Old school.use brake fluid

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81 LeBaron Salon,88 5th ave,79 Aspen SE wagon,79 W150
Don't worry, nothing is going to be alright.

I thought brake fluid did bad things to rubber unless it was specifically made to use with it (like brake hoses).

All brakes have rubber parts.

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81 LeBaron Salon,88 5th ave,79 Aspen SE wagon,79 W150
Don't worry, nothing is going to be alright.

I finally found something that lasts a week. That is when its dry out. Not sure what will happen to it when it starts to rain. It says its waterproof.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zgfyp5vfmvv1x ... .59.33.jpg[/url]

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'64 Valiant Conv V8
'72 Scamp /6 4bbl
'79 Adventurer SE

You will need to erase the [URL] end to get this link to work.

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'64 Valiant Conv V8
'72 Scamp /6 4bbl
'79 Adventurer SE

So did I!

Take a look here instead: http://www.polybushings.com/pages/bushinglube.html

Drill a hole, screw in a lube nipple (they usually have conical threads), fill a grease-gun with polylube, and lubricate your way to silence!

Olaf

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Aspenized

Olafla I considered this but I still have the factory UCAs. I haven't gone under the car to investigate but looking from the top with the car jacked up I didn't see how to get to the bushing to drill it or connect a grease gun. The UCA covers the bushing and with the car jacked covers it completely. I suppose with the car level that there is a portion of the bushing that is accessible but need to see if it is enough to get a drill or grease gun in there. I will post again after see it. Do you have factory UCAs?

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'64 Valiant Conv V8
'72 Scamp /6 4bbl
'79 Adventurer SE