Slant Six Forum :: Best available camshaft for truck use

You are going to convert it from hydraulic to mechanical?

As I understand it, you can't just swap in a mechanical cam but will also have to change out the lifters, pushrods and rockers.

any particular reason you are not having the existing hydraulic cam re ground ?

Several folks on this forum have had cams reground at Oregon Cam,,
With a re grind you can keep your OE oil pump gear meshing with the cam that is has always ran with,,
Oregon has an large selection of hydraulic and mechanical grinds,,
Stay hydraulic and you can clean up and re use your existing valve train and push rods,, on my engine build,, with a re ground cam and .045 off the head, .010 off the block ,, the hydraulic lifter preload ended up with in .010 of OE..

Engin builder os valves are the stock height, a quality machine shop can nail the correct height when re cutting the seats. With a new pump you can still re use the OE gear, shipping ground from IN to OR and back including re grind time was about 2 weeks. Have you looked at the Engine Build Matrix posting? It is in the FAQ section, there are also links to cam selections there including the one that I did,, cam for low rpm torque,,,and Doc has an rv-torque cam up for grabs in the for sale section.

Author:	spacecommander [ Mon Nov 10, 2014 3:23 pm ]
Post subject:	Best available camshaft for truck use - torque?
I'm looking for a available camshaft for my 1982 Dodge W150 4x4. I will be removing the hydraulic cam and installing a new one. Other upgrades will be either a offy manifold and a Holley 390cfm 4bbl or a Offy 2x1 manifold and a pair of the carter/weber progressive 2bbls, headers, a head that has been machined for higher compression, bowl porting, oversize intake valve and modern ignition. I have a manual transmission. Also - I live at 5500 feet. Summit racing has the Howard camshaft 751082-12 - 250 duration, .450 lift- The other is the Comp cams CL64-240-4 with 252 duration and .435 lift thoughts? Something else?

Author:	ProCycle [ Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:28 pm ]
Post subject:
You are going to convert it from hydraulic to mechanical? As I understand it, you can't just swap in a mechanical cam but will also have to change out the lifters, pushrods and rockers.

Author:	spacecommander [ Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:44 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: You are going to convert it from hydraulic to mechanical? As I understand it, you can't just swap in a mechanical cam but will also have to change out the lifters, pushrods and rockers. Yes. The head that will go on is a old early 70's head with the mechanical rockers. Will need to buy new lifters, pushrods, etc.

Author:	DadTruck [ Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:04 pm ]
Post subject:
any particular reason you are not having the existing hydraulic cam re ground ? Several folks on this forum have had cams reground at Oregon Cam,, With a re grind you can keep your OE oil pump gear meshing with the cam that is has always ran with,, Oregon has an large selection of hydraulic and mechanical grinds,, Stay hydraulic and you can clean up and re use your existing valve train and push rods,, on my engine build,, with a re ground cam and .045 off the head, .010 off the block ,, the hydraulic lifter preload ended up with in .010 of OE..

Author:	spacecommander [ Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:16 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: any particular reason you are not having the existing hydraulic cam re ground ? Several folks on this forum have had cams reground at Oregon Cam,, With a re grind you can keep your OE oil pump gear meshing with the cam that is has always ran with,, Oregon has an large selection of hydraulic and mechanical grinds,, Stay hydraulic and you can clean up and re use your existing valve train and push rods,, on my engine build,, with a re ground cam and .045 off the head, .010 off the block ,, the hydraulic lifter preload ended up with in .010 of OE.. Might just get a new pump. My concern is twofold: how long would it take to have the regrind done? The truck is DOA for this period. 2nd - after the new oversize valves are installed I'd have to get the stems surfaced so they are at the same height. More $$. The block is not getting altered as the engine is not coming out of the truck - so more could be taken off the head.

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Author:	DadTruck [ Tue Nov 11, 2014 4:15 am ]
Post subject:
Engin builder os valves are the stock height, a quality machine shop can nail the correct height when re cutting the seats. With a new pump you can still re use the OE gear, shipping ground from IN to OR and back including re grind time was about 2 weeks. Have you looked at the Engine Build Matrix posting? It is in the FAQ section, there are also links to cam selections there including the one that I did,, cam for low rpm torque,,,and Doc has an rv-torque cam up for grabs in the for sale section.

Author:	spacecommander [ Tue Nov 11, 2014 4:44 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Engin builder os valves are the stock height, a quality machine shop can nail the correct height when re cutting the seats. With a new pump you can still re use the OE gear, shipping ground from IN to OR and back including re grind time was about 2 weeks. Have you looked at the Engine Build Matrix posting? It is in the FAQ section, there are also links to cam selections there including the one that I did,, cam for low rpm torque,,,and Doc has an rv-torque cam up for grabs in the for sale section. Thanks for the info. I'm using the engine builder OS intake valve and a NOS exhaust. I back-cut them this afternoon with a Neway cutting tool. I'll check out the cam - thanks! Oh, I did look at the engine matrix, just wanted to see what cams are still available.

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