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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 6:57 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 758
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
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In tracking down the source of voltage leakage between the hot and accessory circuits I find that the plug that connects the ignition switch to the wiring has deteriorated to the point where it is not usable. I have another plug that I saved from another car but it has the same problem. My car is a 62 Valiant and I am using the original ignition switch. Does anybody make a replacement connector or would some later model piece fit? Has anyone else had this problem and how did you solve it?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
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If that connecter is anything like the later 70's ones... they are just craptastic. The female side opens up and the joint becomes loose, creating some heat and voltage drop.

You can try using a screwdriver (or removing the terminal from the plastic housing temporarily) and pinching it together to close it back up some and make a better connection.

There are plenty of aftermarket connectors you can use but the width of the shells they come in will prevent you from removing the switch through the column in the future. Maybe instead of using a single large connector that houses all the wires together, use individual male/female quick disconnects? They make some where the plastic extends over the entire connector so they are short-proof but not weatherproof (which the original connector wasn't anyway).

Those fit together snugly, and should still let you fish the switch out the column. The packard style connectors, even in single conductors, are probably too big to get through the column.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:23 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8695
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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It looks like the switch application is 60-68 Valiant, and up to later years in other models. So I'm thinking you have a wide range of cars/trucks to get a connector from. I just rewired my race car, and kept the OEM switch, but used insulated female wire connectors, on the switch. Granted you need to put each wire on the switch individually, and it is not "idiot proof", but it is a viable option.

PS: I always use the connectors that have sealant in them, and need to be heated to "shrink" them. Like these. http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Produ ... c=SBB-9263

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24437
Location: North America
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Do that, put a top-quality individual female terminal on the end of each wire. Then buy yourself an 8-pack of this amazing stuff which also comes in colour (see here) and use some of it to make yourself a solid new multi-wire connector housing if you like. Then use the rest of it to get started on the list of a zillion useful uses that will occur to you -- seriously, this stuff is magical.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 7:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8695
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Just a FYI. If doing much wire terminal crimping, I highly advise getting a good crimping tool. Similar to this.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Appliance- ... al+crimper

With a good crimping tool, and adhesive/sealant connectors, you will actually get a better result, then by soldering.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 7:24 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 758
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
Car Model:
Some good ideas, would this rubber stuff harden to the point where it could be like a new plastic plug? My problem is deterioration of the plastic due to heat. I was thinking of cutting the Batt and Acc terminals off the existing plug with a Dremel and using the remainder to connect the three ignition-start terminals, then using two separate female blade connectors for the heavy wires. What do you think of that?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:50 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1824
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Sidebar; Dan, have you had the opportunity to use that stuff? If so, does it cure to a hard rubber flexibilty, or a silicone flexibility?

Roger


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Quote:
Some good ideas, would this rubber stuff harden to the point where it could be like a new plastic plug?
Yes.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 1:28 pm 
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Location: North America
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Quote:
Sidebar; Dan, have you had the opportunity to use that stuff?
Yes.
Quote:
If so, does it cure to a hard rubber flexibilty
Yes. You can dig a thumbnail into it slightly, but only if the thumbnail's dry and you really throw some pressure at it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24437
Location: North America
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Quote:
Just a FYI. If doing much wire terminal crimping, I highly advise getting a good crimping tool.
Totally agree. The stamped-steel hobbyist type is really not worth messing with. But neither do you have to spend much money to get a good one such as this.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 2:22 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8695
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
Dan, the one you linked to is ok, but I still like the one I refered to, better. Not that brand/price in particular, but that type.

As you said, the hobby ones are not worth buying

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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